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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,756 total, 16/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This short little pitch has really cool rock, all the black quartz knobs remind me of Sierra granite. There used to be an old buttonhead that somebody has chopped in the last 4 years that protected the final move onto the shoulder, lame. But you still don't really need it if you just came up one of the Thumb routes, your already prepared.

Make an exposed move over to the bucket, mantle the "water hole" and slab your way onto the shoulder. 3rd class will bring you to the summit block.

Location

Once you top out the upper slab on the Thumb hike up along the west side of the Thumb proper. You will be hiking in steep dirt with the occasional bouldering move. From the notch that separates the summit from the land form hang to the south. The Summit pitch climbs the north side of the block.

Protection

A big nut for the first step over move from the notch.

Depending how you want to get down there is a new set of anchors for Robbins Crack presumably, which will put you back down towards the Thumb slab. Or if your walking off, rap off of 2 rap hangers on the north side. A single rope will do.

Photos

Carl Smith
BeaUTAHfull
 
Carl Smith   BeaUTAHfull
 
The bolt protecting the mantle move to the shoulder looked boomer and there are bolts/chains at the top of the summit block to rap of west (also bomber!) Mar 17, 2017
Dennis
 
Dennis  
 
Climbed this yesterday. There is a new looking bolt protecting the final moves onto the shoulder. Also two sets of rap anchors on the summit. One on the north face, the other on the west face. Super fun and a must do if you've come all that way. Apr 17, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.5
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.5
The slab after the trucker 1st hold is a bit dicy, best to pinch on the biggest crystal you can find and keep moving. The remnants of the fire are gone now. everything is clean again. Oct 31, 2008
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Hey TP, the fire pit is from a couple of super cool Canadians who had to bivy there last weekend. They got a pretty late start, mostly cause I kept talking to them at the base, and spent longer than they had planned groveling in the chimneys on the standard route.
The topped out pretty late and got their rope stuck on the rap. By the time they got it free it was too late to descend in the dark and they had to bivy right where they were. They got a fire going to keep warm and made it down the next day safe and sound.
Sorry to hear they didn't cover up the pit or something... Oct 29, 2008