Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Les Ellison & Brian Smoot, 1979
Page Views: 2,980 total · 17/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Sep 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1 Begins on Lunch ledge, 40' left of the S Direct. Stem up grooves for 20'. Traverse right to a shallow crack in a right facing corner. Climb straight up (poor pro) to a low angle slab below a wide roof. Belay at the left end of this roof by a bunch of chickenheads about 10 feet ABOVE the slab at 2 bolts (5.9 R/X not obvious). This dangerous pitch can be avoided by climbing the first pitch of the S direct and traversing left across the easy slab to the belay (5.7).

Pitch 2: Follow the short crack above, then slab up and right along a ramp to a steep section. The airy belay is 20' higher (5.10). The first bolt on this pitch was added after the first ascent.

Pitch 3: Move up & right to a beautiful flake, similar to the "Zion Curtain" in Bells. At the end of the flake move back left and up to a bolted belay - great pitch! (5.10a).

Pitch 4: Ascend the slab above to the chimney breaking the headwall above to the top (5.8+).

This route has been recently re-bolted.

Location

Starts on Lunch Ledge, left of the S Direct.

Protection

Standard traditional rack. If you climb the first pitch you may want to bring a few large copperheads!

Photos