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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Les Ellison & Brian Smoot, 1979
Page Views: 2,299 total · 17/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Sep 3, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1 Begins on Lunch ledge, 40' left of the S Direct. Stem up grooves for 20'. Traverse right to a shallow crack in a right facing corner. Climb straight up (poor pro) to a low angle slab below a wide roof. Belay at the left end of this roof, about 10 feet ABOVE the slab at 2 bolts (5.9 R/X not obvious). This dangerous pitch can be avoided by climbing the first pitch of the S direct and traversing left across the easy slab to the belay (5.6).

Pitch 2: Climb up and right along a ramp to a steep section. The airy belay is 20' higher (5.10).

Pitch 3: Move up & right to a beautiful flake, similar to the "Zion Curtain" in Bells. At the end of the flake move back left and up to a bolted belay - great pitch! (5.10a).

Pitch 4: Ascend the slab above to the chimney breaking the headwall above to the top (5.8).

This route has been recently re-bolted.

Location

Starts on Lunch Ledge, left of the S Direct.

Protection

Standard traditional rack. If you climb the first pitch you may want to bring a few large copperheads!

Photos

Micah Lewkowitz
Ridgway, CO
Micah Lewkowitz   Ridgway, CO
I put up a trip report of Spring Fever on my site. Check it out for beta and photos: Trip Report Apr 19, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a/b
The flake pitch is really good and safe with the new beefy hardware. We rapped into it from the top of S-direct and it seems like a 70m rope would make it (we had 2).
The moves off the belay are thin and the rock a bit flakey, I'd recommend lowering the belayer to the last bolt of the previous pitch to prevent a nasty fall on the anchor (1 new bolt - 2 button-heads). There's a bad piece in the roof between the belay and the 1st bolt but I'd expect it to blow. Reaching the flake requires a leap of faith or some serious levitation.
After getting back into the corner above the flake, watch for a super-flexy tongue of granite that you'd pull straight on your belayer.
The last pitch can be protected entirely with slung chickenheads until you reach the roof.
I need to get back up there and do the first two pitches... Oct 6, 2009
Luke Douglas  
 
Classic line, with really cool moves, bold! More traffic would clean up some of the removable chicken heads and exfoliating slab sections. Oct 29, 2008
JBONE
 
JBONE  
 
The last pitch is very good (5.8). Don't stop after the flake! This pitch will actually give u a workout (nice change from slabbing). Nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot. The rest of the climb below is super cool too. Climb Robbins Crack while u are up there. Oct 8, 2008
tenesmus  
 
This is a lot of fun. You should know it is not as sustained as S-direct and the runnouts you do have are where its 5.6 or less. It definitely has harder moves than S-direct and they are for real but almost always within arms reach of a bolt or pro.

If you've done S-Direct and loved getting high on the Thumb this is a very worthy option. Do the alternate after the first pitch of S-direct as Brian recommended. That flake pitch is a lot like the Zion's Curtain on Arm and Hammer in Bell's and has cool entry and exit moves, making it worth the trip alone.

You can easily traverse to the top of S-direct from the anchor after the flake if you wanted to rap the whole thing with a 70m rope. May 10, 2008