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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Royal Robbins and Ted Wilson
Page Views: 1,024 total · 12/month
Shared By: RKM on Nov 10, 2011 with updates from jawshoe uhh
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A very old route on the east side of the Thumb.

Mark Ward made an early solo (roped) ascent. Probably '71 or '72. Took a leader fall on the 4th pitch and sliced his leg. Finished the route and then went to get stitched up.

Some fixed pins. A little dirty but very historic and one of the original hard routes in the canyon

Location

Start uphill from Spring and Fall. A direct line up a slanting chimney heading for a apex shaped roof.

Protection

Standard

Photos

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
I kind of thought the 3rd pitch was mank, and I am not adverse to groveling. Jan 11, 2016

More About Robbins' Route

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