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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Leonard Coyne 1978
Page Views: 5,087 total, 46/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Oct 11, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Short and sweet, this is a steep finger crack visible near the base of the thumb.

Location

From PlumbLine, look up towards the base of the thumb area. It is the obvious fingercrack that starts with a rightward lean and then heads straight up the wall.
An approch pitch up the easy corner will get you to an anchor on a tree at the base of the route. Head up and once you are at the top, you will see anchors to your right.

Protection

Mostly Finger sized pieces the entire way. Make sure you have at least doubles of 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5. Stoppers are also handy and a good placement can be found nearly anywhere if you can hold on long enough to use it.
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
The newly added anchor is unnecessary, and right at crack systems that take gear. From the top of Coyne one can rap to the ground in one go without the aid of this station or the slung trees. Oct 12, 2017
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
Was up here yesterday and saw the bolts - not SS. There is a short chain on one and only a locking biner on the other for the rappel points. I don't mind the bolts keeping wear off the poor trees, but it is a shame proper hardware wasn't installed. Oct 30, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Who put those in? What kind of bolt/hangers? Are they stainless? Oct 20, 2016
New bolted anchors by the "better" lower tree stance. Can rap to these from the top anchors below S crack with a 70m rope. Two more single raps to get to the ground. Great route. Oct 20, 2016
madskates
slc
 
madskates   slc
 
Great little finger crack, Linking this with S-Crack and on to S-Direct or Spring Fever make for a great day! Dec 1, 2015
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.11d
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.11d
A totally awesome climb.

I got on this hoping to push myself since 5.11d is clearly out of my onsight or even single fall range. No, multiple falls were taken. But the great thing about this crack is that it protects well.

A lesson in pain tolerance and endurance (for us mere mortals who are still putzing around in the 5.10 range). I'm not sure the complaints about it being too short are warranted; it was plenty long for me!

A few notes:
1, approach from The Thumb gully, rope up to the base and then haul your stuff up. The ascent over by the rope ladder is tricky, dirty, and difficult with a pack.
2, expect two raps from the S-crack anchors. Maybe we did it wrong, but I found swinging over to the first set of anchors a bit of a gamble. Instead we rapped down to the first grove of trees (full 70m) and then down to the base. Oct 19, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
What a great, short route. I recommend belaying at the lower set of scrub oaks (in Spencer's "looking down at crux" picture, you can see them about 30 ft down from the upper belay). The traditional upper belay anchor is a nasty scrub oak hanging stance from old tat, and the oak is about 80% dead. Belaying from the lower set of bushes is much better for the belayer (comfy), the bushes are more robust, there is no rope drag produced by belaying there, and your leader gets a softer catch when they come off at the crux.

The gear beta from others is spot-on. I used two each .3,.4,.5 camalots, an orange metolius and a blue (#1) metolius. Don't bother hanging around to place nuts. However, If you belay at the lower set of bushes per my recommendation, take along a #3 and .75 camalot for that initial section, and a few runners.

The off-fingers section near the beginning is strenuous for about 10 feet, until you get to great tight fingers as the wall gets steeper. The big rest 'ledge' in the middle is nice, and the upper section is considerably easier than the bottom half. Too bad this thing is so short! Oct 8, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Stellar splitter. One of the best hard cracks in Little for sure. It is a bit on the short side, but what it lacks in length it compensates for in quality and aesthetics. It is broken down into 2 sections. The 11d crux is the first 10 feet of offset right leaning .5 camalots but once you hit the vertical .3 locks it is SO GOOD! Then you hit a ledge of sorts for a great rest before finishing up on a lower angle section with really good locks and a final cruxy move pulling onto the 5th class slab. A bit of a struggle to get to as it involves some scrambling and then a 5.6 section of climbing to reach the grove of barely thriving shrubs upon which you tie yourself to, but its worth it. A double set of cams from .3 to .5 camalot is great with a nut or two along with a cam in the red c3 size range. Nothing bigger fits. You can rig an anchor with medium nuts or small cams for TR sessions. Rappel down from the S Crack anchors 20 ft up and right from the topout back to the belay bushel. One 60m plenty. Oct 14, 2011
bheller
SL UT
  5.11c
bheller   SL UT
  5.11c
Apparently there is no correlation between route length and stars awarded. This route is disappointingly short. MINUS AT LEAST ONE STAR IMMEDIATELY!:) This is like a low quality version of Yosemite's Butterballs. It is nice to actually climb a real finger crack in LCC. May 1, 2009