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Routes in The Thumb Area
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Agent Smith T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Back to Black T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flabbergaster T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Flake Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ghouls Night Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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LCC Half Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Matrix Reloaded S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Morpheus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Madness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Summit Pitch (AKA: East Face), The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2 |
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Up Your Nose with a Rubber Hose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 40.5746, -111.7574 |
| FA: | George Lowe, Pete Gibbs, Eric Eliason 1968. FFA: Brian Smoot and Mark Rolofson 1979. |
| Page Views: | 2,485 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | RKM on Nov 10, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew Brodhead, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This climb used to be a bit run-out. Also required pins. Ruckman guide says it has added bolts now.
Pitch 1: Climb the leaning left facing corner to the slab above. Follow "Green A" type thin cracks to a sloping ledge. (5.10a)
Pitch 2: Face climb up the bolt protected slab on superb rock to a ridiculously thin left facing corner. Follow this sporty section to a semi hanging bolted belay. (5.10)
Pitch 3: Follow the right leaning corner above past a pin to a ramp and a belay part way up it. Short pitch.
Pitch 4: Ascend the ramp until it inverts into a roof. Down climb straight below to a slab. Traverse right and up (past a bolt) to a leaning flake. From the top of the flake traverse right to an intersection with the Robbins route.(5.10d). Most climbers follow the Robbins route from here (5.10).
Note: The roof on pitch 4 was the original route and required aid climbing.
Another early, hard and classic route.
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