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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Royal Robbins and Ted Wilson
Page Views: 1,790 total · 13/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The offwidth crack on the west side of the Thumb. It is a great option to gain the summit if you don't mind grinding a knee or two. I wouldn't claim this to be a true offwidth, as there are many hand jams on the pitch. The original rating of this route was 5.10. I think Royal may have short arms and couldn't get the jams.


On the West side of the actual Thumb spire.


You do NOT need to lug huge cams to do this pitch. You can climb this safely with the same rack you used to get to the base of the pitch. Two or Three #3 camalots would be nice and a #4 or larger camalot would be convenient if you really wanted to sew it up.


Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
I must have short hand and ankle are torn to shreds. My blood wasn't the only blood left in the crack either. The crystals are big and sharp. There are a lot of good hand jams deep in the crack, but I couldn't reach half of them, the other half were cups for my small hands. Offwidth technique is a must for this climb. I used arm bars, butterfly jams, chickenwings, heel-toe cams, kneebars and probably made some stuff up too. It was a good humbling experience for me. Nov 2, 2007
Ty Gregory
Salt Lake City
Ty Gregory   Salt Lake City
This was the first 5.10 established in the canyon at a time when harder grades did not exist. Keep that in mind if you ever try this route.
Robbins crack requires supreme offwidth skills and an inclination for pain and frustration to the extreme. If you possess these attributes then go give this thing try if not be well aware that as soon as you peer into the its maw satan will cackle and chew off your arms. Make sure you take medical gauze with you. Nov 23, 2007
Burly. Takes some 1's or 3's in the bottom half. Didn't make it past that, good luck! Oct 5, 2014
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
gribchock Aug 27, 2015

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