Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Royal Robbins and Ted Wilson
Page Views: 2,703 total · 14/month
Shared By: GRK on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The offwidth crack on the west side of the Thumb. It is a great option to gain the summit if you don't mind grinding a knee or two. I wouldn't claim this to be a true offwidth, as there are many hand jams on the pitch. The original rating of this route was 5.10. I think Royal may have short arms and couldn't get the jams.


On the West side of the actual Thumb spire.


You do NOT need to lug huge cams to do this pitch. You can climb this safely with the same rack you used to get to the base of the pitch. Two or Three #3 camalots would be nice and a #4 or larger camalot would be convenient if you really wanted to sew it up.