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Routes in The Thumb Area
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Agent Smith T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Back to Black T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Flabbergaster T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Flake Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ghouls Night Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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LCC Half Pipe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Matrix Reloaded S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Morpheus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Madness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2 |
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Up Your Nose with a Rubber Hose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ellsworth, McQuarrie, and Wilson, 1964 |
| Page Views: | 7,891 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | John J. Glime on Aug 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Only hard climbers will free this route completely. It does go really well at 5.8 C1 possibly C2.
The route starts at the same place as the standard thumb (lower left side of the face below a big, ugly chimney.)
Start your first pitch from the ground, or scramble up 5.3 cracks to your right to a sloping ledge.
Pitch one, 5.6: Climb up cracks to the tree choked gully and belay in the upper trees. You will notice Coyne Crack (5.11d) on your left.
Pitch two, 5.8: Work up the tiring chimney(for me)and exit up and left on top of a pillar. (Do not follow the chimney crack as it gets smaller and arches to the right.) It should be said that many people protect the chimney by first climbing the crack to its right, placing protection, downclimbing a bit, and then jumping into the chimney.
Pitch three, crux 5.12a or C1: You should see a bolt with a sling attached. Head towards it and take one of three variations to get up into the fantastic crack that moves up and right then back left. Aid or free climb up the crack to a blocky ledge above.
Pitch four, 5.8: Continue up and right liebacking/jamming the lower angle crack to reach an off-width groove, which is kind of awkward. I don't remember exactly, but some bigger cams might be helpful in the groove. The climb ends on lunch ledge.
Either continue up S-Direct or Standard Thumb, or rappel.
From lunch ledge you can make three double rope rappels to the base.
Aided at 5.8C1
The route starts at the same place as the standard thumb (lower left side of the face below a big, ugly chimney.)
Start your first pitch from the ground, or scramble up 5.3 cracks to your right to a sloping ledge.
Pitch one, 5.6: Climb up cracks to the tree choked gully and belay in the upper trees. You will notice Coyne Crack (5.11d) on your left.
Pitch two, 5.8: Work up the tiring chimney(for me)and exit up and left on top of a pillar. (Do not follow the chimney crack as it gets smaller and arches to the right.) It should be said that many people protect the chimney by first climbing the crack to its right, placing protection, downclimbing a bit, and then jumping into the chimney.
Pitch three, crux 5.12a or C1: You should see a bolt with a sling attached. Head towards it and take one of three variations to get up into the fantastic crack that moves up and right then back left. Aid or free climb up the crack to a blocky ledge above.
Pitch four, 5.8: Continue up and right liebacking/jamming the lower angle crack to reach an off-width groove, which is kind of awkward. I don't remember exactly, but some bigger cams might be helpful in the groove. The climb ends on lunch ledge.
Either continue up S-Direct or Standard Thumb, or rappel.
From lunch ledge you can make three double rope rappels to the base.
Aided at 5.8C1
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