Avg: 3 from 45 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ellsworth, McQuarrie, and Wilson, 1964|
|Page Views:||6,769 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||John J. Glime on Aug 31, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
The route starts at the same place as the standard thumb (lower left side of the face below a big, ugly chimney.)
Start your first pitch from the ground, or scramble up 5.3 cracks to your right to a sloping ledge.
Pitch one, 5.6: Climb up cracks to the tree choked gully and belay in the upper trees. You will notice Coyne Crack (5.11d) on your left.
Pitch two, 5.8: Work up the tiring chimney(for me)and exit up and left on top of a pillar. (Do not follow the chimney crack as it gets smaller and arches to the right.) It should be said that many people protect the chimney by first climbing the crack to its right, placing protection, downclimbing a bit, and then jumping into the chimney.
Pitch three, crux 5.12a or C1: You should see a bolt with a sling attached. Head towards it and take one of three variations to get up into the fantastic crack that moves up and right then back left. Aid or free climb up the crack to a blocky ledge above.
Pitch four, 5.8: Continue up and right liebacking/jamming the lower angle crack to reach an off-width groove, which is kind of awkward. I don't remember exactly, but some bigger cams might be helpful in the groove. The climb ends on lunch ledge.
Either continue up S-Direct or Standard Thumb, or rappel.
From lunch ledge you can make three double rope rappels to the base.
Aided at 5.8C1