Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ellsworth, McQuarrie, and Wilson, 1964
Page Views: 7,814 total · 31/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Aug 31, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Only hard climbers will free this route completely. It does go really well at 5.8 C1 possibly C2.

The route starts at the same place as the standard thumb (lower left side of the face below a big, ugly chimney.)

Start your first pitch from the ground, or scramble up 5.3 cracks to your right to a sloping ledge.

Pitch one, 5.6: Climb up cracks to the tree choked gully and belay in the upper trees. You will notice Coyne Crack (5.11d) on your left.

Pitch two, 5.8: Work up the tiring chimney(for me)and exit up and left on top of a pillar. (Do not follow the chimney crack as it gets smaller and arches to the right.) It should be said that many people protect the chimney by first climbing the crack to its right, placing protection, downclimbing a bit, and then jumping into the chimney.

Pitch three, crux 5.12a or C1: You should see a bolt with a sling attached. Head towards it and take one of three variations to get up into the fantastic crack that moves up and right then back left. Aid or free climb up the crack to a blocky ledge above.

Pitch four, 5.8: Continue up and right liebacking/jamming the lower angle crack to reach an off-width groove, which is kind of awkward. I don't remember exactly, but some bigger cams might be helpful in the groove. The climb ends on lunch ledge.

Either continue up S-Direct or Standard Thumb, or rappel.

From lunch ledge you can make three double rope rappels to the base.

Aided at 5.8C1

Protection Suggest change

Standard trad rack. Possibly the biggest big bros might protect the second pitch chimney.