Chad just beyond the short P4 flare/groove crux and almost to the chains. I found this pitch to be much easier and better protected than the Trough pitch of the Standard Thumb route.

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Thumb Area > S-Crack (5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a)

Chad just beyond the short P4 flare/groove crux and almost to the chains. I found this pitch to be much easier and better protected than the Trough pitch of the Standard Thumb route.

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flared hands

Following up P4. Chad is at the anchors. The first section with tricky pro has a mysterious single bolt on the right to clip. Climbing it was very easy since the angle was very flat.

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Mark Thomas

Sep 25, 2019

“Chad just beyond the short P4 flare/groove crux and almost to the chains. I found this pitch to be much easier and better protected than the Trough pitch of the Standard Thumb route.”

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Nearby Photos

Mark Ward nearly pulling off a free ascent of the thin crack crux. Mid 70's

S-Crack

Tim Nguyen <sp leading up the "Groove" pitch.

Ryan B digging the tricky part of the "Groove" pitch, just before Lunch Ledge anchors. Getting ready for the lead on S-Direct.

Bob almost free on the "Crack" pitch of S-Crack (pitch 2 or 3 depending how you do it).

a view of the 2nd pitch OW/chimney crack. Its #6 camalot for most of it, and not vertical at all.

Ian McAlexander at the top of pitch four.

flared hands

Chad just beyond the short P4 flare/groove crux and almost to the chains. I found this pitch to be much easier and better protected than the Trough pitch of the Standard Thumb route.

Following up P4. Chad is at the anchors. The first section with tricky pro has a mysterious single bolt on the right to clip. Climbing it was very easy since the angle was very flat.

Looking down after aiding the P3 crack.

Chad leading P4, which was a fantastic hand crack! Until the very end it took great pro and jams.

P3 seen from the base. Unfortunately the old aid line is no longer any good, as the tat to reach the right corner TT is old and shortened, and the bolt looked bad. There is a piton on the left of the ledge protecting the entry mantle into the crack.

Beginning the P3 crack. It is a tad flaring and gritty at first, but quite moderate.

P2 blaarg.

Looking down near the top of the P2 chimney.

This was arguably the crux of P2 for me. Passing the pine tree to get into the chimney was a beast!

Yummy P2 chimney. Going into this I thought/expected it to be 5.6, so I feel better now knowing that it is actually 5.8!

Beginning pitch 3 or 4 (depending how you did it) the "5.8 Groove" pitch on the way to Lunch Ledge. Ogden visitors Tim leading and Bob basking in the sun.

Looking up the final P4 crux. The higher you get, the more insecure the flare gets. There is small gear in the trough to start, but you could probably push bigger cams up a bit higher.

Court in the glorious hands section

The first pitch, rated 5.6 with some bush action as well

These are the cracks to the right of the 2nd pitch OW/chimney that can be climbed and used to essentially TR the chimney.

Lunch Ledge seen from the end of Indecent Exposure/S-Crack vars. S-Direct continues up the center corner, Standard Thumb comes in from the left, exits right. Might be nicer (but harder) to lieback and slab in the corner to a belay rather than...

The mildly junky start shared with the Standard Thumb. Traverse left for Standard Thumb, or continue straight up here towards the jungle beneath Coyne Crack for S-Crack.

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