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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Kim Miller and Mark Ward 1976
Page Views: 1,623 total, 16/month
Shared By: bheller on Jul 8, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


The short, right-leaning, off-set, off-sized, splitter crack. The crux is hanging on and placing gear for the first 15 feet. Make it through the start and the climbing eases, surmounts a pillar, and then traverse left past an inobvious but easy slab into a different crack/groove system. The chain anchors are just above at a stance.

Originally rated 5.10 by a couple of guys who had no idea how good they were.

The first 15 feet offer some of the hardest crack climbing in LCC. Not a handbag.


This route is located on the side of the Thumb, up and right from the starts of the standard Thumb routes. (S-crack, etc.) You can scramble up the 5th class gully to the right of the Standard Thumb starts for about 150 vertical feet or so. After the gully scramble, on the wall to your left you'll see a short attractive splitter to a right-leaning flare- this is Spring and Fall.


Cams- (3).75 green camalots, (2).5 purple camalots, (1)red camalot, and sling on a small finger sized cam to protect the traverse. Draws for the chains.


Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
I've always heard this is more like 12a. Apr 26, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Wicked hard. Don't even bother trying this one unless you have the .5-.75 stacks dialed. I sure don't. The Lcc lean makes this one relentless and the offset doesn't help matters. The slab move reach across at the top above your gear is exciting. Jul 27, 2012