Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Kim Miller and Mark Ward 1976
Page Views: 1,766 total · 15/month
Shared By: bheller on Jul 8, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The short, right-leaning, off-set, off-sized, splitter crack. The crux is hanging on and placing gear for the first 15 feet. Make it through the start and the climbing eases, surmounts a pillar, and then traverse left past an inobvious but easy slab into a different crack/groove system. The chain anchors are just above at a stance.

Originally rated 5.10 by a couple of guys who had no idea how good they were.

The first 15 feet offer some of the hardest crack climbing in LCC. Not a handbag.

Location

This route is located on the side of the Thumb, up and right from the starts of the standard Thumb routes. (S-crack, etc.) You can scramble up the 5th class gully to the right of the Standard Thumb starts for about 150 vertical feet or so. After the gully scramble, on the wall to your left you'll see a short attractive splitter to a right-leaning flare- this is Spring and Fall.

Protection

Cams- (3).75 green camalots, (2).5 purple camalots, (1)red camalot, and sling on a small finger sized cam to protect the traverse. Draws for the chains.

Photos