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Routes in The Thumb Area

Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down Your Throat With A Hairy Goat! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flake Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Higher Expectations T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Indecent Exposure Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Lip T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nob Job T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Robbins Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Robbins' Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
S-Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
S-Direct, Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
S-Matrix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Fever T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring and Fall T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Standard Thumb, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summit Pitch, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thumbing To Bogota T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C1-2
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Wolfe and Pete Carney, 1987
Page Views: 689 total, 7/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Sep 30, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

when starting up the initial double cracks of indecent exposure branch off to the left and follow the weakness' up. This should lead you to a nice little belay ledge just left of the indecent gulley. belay here and either continue up and left reaching lunch ledge on the 2nd pitch or finish on the final pitch of indecent. either way its a nice variation that aviods the worst of the gulley thrash.

Location

branch left out of the indecent exposure double cracks and stay on the face.

Protection

wireds and cams. I never came across the fixed pro but this route seems to wander so I might have gone a different way than the FA.

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Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe   Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
After moving up the finger crack and topping out to the left of the bush the terrain gets extremely loose. Be very very cautious. My partner accidentally dislodged a toaster size rock here last week that exploded less then 10 feet away from me as I belayed on the higher anchors in the gully. Shrapnel ricocheted down the gully and left me grateful that I wasn't on the lower anchors and that there were no parties below us. Scary. Apr 7, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
I found that bolt Tim! Its a p.o.s. but thats what time will do to old steel. The variation I've been using is starting up indecent you branch left following the finger crack all the way up to a bush that I normally skirt to the left. Above the bush is easy ground 15ft left of the indecent tree gulley you overcome a slight bulge(5.5) and cruise up more easy terrain (35ft) to a belay directly below the handcrack of indecent. this way you avoid the entire gulley pitch as well as avoid Tim's run out of doom! Nov 3, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 R
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9 R
Obviously as the name implies we had higher expectations for this routes quality. The first pitch moves up and left linking various cracks together and belaying somewhere in the middle of the face or just right of the corner. The initial fixed piece is gone (old bashed in #7 stopper). The second pitch goes right up the middle of the slab, there is one second fixed piece still there - an old 1/4 inch bolt. Be careful above the bolt as its a bit run out (My wife and I rescued a guy who broke his leg and got a head injury on that section so kind of hairball). Perhaps with new microcams this route is safer. At the time - drilling was frowned upon so we linked whatever we could. The route gets you out of the bushes but its a bit more difficult, dangerous and time consuming. Jun 28, 2010
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
For my second ascent of the thumb on sept 29th 2009 I chose this fun variation to stay out of the gulley. By the time we got to the summit the winds were howling at about 50+ mph!!! The next day I woke up to snow capped peaks, what timing! Sep 30, 2009