Elevation: 6,396 ft
GPS: 40.569, -111.738 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 78,094 total · 384/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003 with improvements by Mike Marmar
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

Popular on hot mornings as this crag offers nice northwest-facing climbs. Fine Yosemite-like granite and several stellar multi-pitch climbs. Mostly trad but a few sport routes in the .11 - .12 range. Don't miss Pentapitch and Sasquatch!

Getting There

The Pentapitch area is on the south side of the canyon. The directions in the Ruckman guide (as well as older comments below) are wrong since a bridge by the pumphouse washed out.

After passing the pumphouse, continue driving up canyon. Just past Gate B, watch for the pullout and gated dirt road on the right.

Park at the pullout. Scoot around the chain-link gate and continue along the road going east for about 0.1mi. The road will turn down towards the creek (south). Follow for another few hundred feet to a nice wooden bridge over the creek.

Cross the bridge, and you are now on a doubletrack mtn bike trail. The trail immediately turns right (going west). Follow it for about 0.25mi, passing a giant split boulder on your right (halfway to the turnoff) until you come to two obvious giant pine trees (see photo) off the right side of the trail. To your left (just before the trees) will be an obvious path with stone steps. It will likely be muddy and might have a small stream running down it (see photo).

Follow the trail a short ways to a talus field. Skirt to the far right side of the field (not the top, but the right-most part). At the far right corner of the field pick up a short trail (100ft) that goes straight up to the base of Pentapitch.

Approach time is about 20 minutes.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pentapitch Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Pentapass
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 623
Pentapitch
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
Japanese Terraces
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 544
Sasquatch
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 31
Nubbins Direct
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 82
Endless Torment
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Nubbins to Nowhere
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Dike from Hell
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 39
Pearls Before Swine
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 13
Lesbian Seagulls
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 73
Neuromancer
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
Littlefoot
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 28
Flashdance
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 18
Pudgy Gumbies
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pentapass
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pentapitch
 623
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Japanese Terraces
 73
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Sasquatch
 544
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Nubbins Direct
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Endless Torment
 82
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Nubbins to Nowhere
 30
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dike from Hell
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pearls Before Swine
 39
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lesbian Seagulls
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
Neuromancer
 73
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Littlefoot
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Flashdance
 28
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad, TR
Pudgy Gumbies
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Pentapitch Area »

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