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Elevation: 6,396 ft
GPS: 40.56859, -111.73767
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 115,569 total · 467/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Popular on hot mornings as this crag offers nice northwest-facing climbs. Fine Yosemite-like granite and several stellar multi-pitch climbs. Mostly trad but a few sport routes in the .11 - .12 range. Don't miss Pentapitch and Sasquatch!

Getting There Suggest change

The Pentapitch area is on the south side of the canyon. The directions in the Ruckman guide (as well as older comments below) are wrong since a bridge by the pumphouse washed out.

After passing the pumphouse, continue driving up canyon. Just past Gate B, watch for the pullout and gated dirt road on the right.

Park at the pullout. Scoot around the chain-link gate and continue along the road going east for about 0.1mi. The road will turn down towards the creek (south). Follow for another few hundred feet to a nice wooden bridge over the creek.

Cross the bridge, and you are now on a doubletrack mtn bike trail. The trail immediately turns right (going west). Follow it for about 0.25mi, passing a giant split boulder on your right (halfway to the turnoff) until you come to two obvious giant pine trees (see photo) off the right side of the trail. To your left (just before the trees) will be an obvious path with stone steps. It will likely be muddy and might have a small stream running down it (see photo).

Follow the trail a short ways to a talus field. Skirt to the far right side of the field (not the top, but the right-most part). At the far right corner of the field pick up a short trail (100ft) that goes straight up to the base of Pentapitch.

Approach time is about 20 minutes.

18 Total Climbs

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Location: Pentapitch Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Pentapitch Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 51
Pentapass
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 851
Pentapitch
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 99
Japanese Terraces
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 710
Sasquatch
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 37
Nubbins Direct
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 101
Endless Torment
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Nubbins to Nowhere
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 54
Pearls Before Swine
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 16
Lesbian Seagulls
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 88
Neuromancer
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Littlefoot
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 34
Flashdance
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 31
Pudgy Gumbies
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pentapass
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pentapitch
 851
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Japanese Terraces
 99
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Sasquatch
 710
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Nubbins Direct
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Endless Torment
 101
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Nubbins to Nowhere
 43
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pearls Before Swine
 54
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lesbian Seagulls
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
Neuromancer
 88
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Littlefoot
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Flashdance
 34
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad, TR
Pudgy Gumbies
 31
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Pentapitch Area »

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