Pentapitch Area Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.569, -111.738 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCAsaltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
After passing the pumphouse, continue driving up canyon. Just past Gate B, watch for the pullout and gated dirt road on the right.
Park at the pullout. Scoot around the chain-link gate and continue along the road going east for about 0.1mi. The road will turn down towards the creek (south). Follow for another few hundred feet to a nice wooden bridge over the creek.
Cross the bridge, and you are now on a doubletrack mtn bike trail. The trail immediately turns right (going west). Follow it for about 0.25mi, passing a giant split boulder on your right (halfway to the turnoff) until you come to two obvious giant pine trees (see photo) off the right side of the trail. To your left (just before the trees) will be an obvious path with stone steps. It will likely be muddy and might have a small stream running down it (see photo).
Follow the trail a short ways to a talus field. Skirt to the far right side of the field (not the top, but the right-most part). At the far right corner of the field pick up a short trail (100ft) that goes straight up to the base of Pentapitch.
Approach time is about 20 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Pentapitch Area
Days w Precip