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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

Popular on hot mornings as this crag offers nice northwest-facing climbs. Fine Yosemite-like granite and several stellar multi-pitch climbs. Mostly trad but a few sport routes in the .11 - .12 range. Don't miss Pentapitch and Sasquatch!

Getting There

The Pentapitch area is on the south side of the canyon. The directions in the Ruckman guide (as well as older comments below) are wrong since a bridge by the pumphouse washed out.

After passing the pumphouse, continue driving up canyon. Just past Gate B, watch for the pullout and gated dirt road on the right.

Park at the pullout. Scoot around the chain-link gate and continue along the road going east for about 0.1mi. The road will turn down towards the creek (south). Follow for another few hundred feet to a nice wooden bridge over the creek.

Cross the bridge, and you are now on a doubletrack mtn bike trail. The trail immediately turns right (going west). Follow it for about 0.25mi, passing a giant split boulder on your right until you come to two obvious giant pine trees (see photo) off the right side of the trail. To your left will be an obvious path with stone steps. It will likely be muddy and might have a small stream running down it (see photo).

Follow the trail a short ways to a talus field. Skirt the right side of the field. At the far right corner of the field pick up a short trail (100ft) that goes straight up to the base of Pentapitch.

Approach time is about 20 minutes.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pentapitch Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Pentapass
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 503
Pentapitch
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
Japanese Terraces
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 429
Sasquatch
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 25
Nubbins Direct
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 65
Endless Torment
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Nubbins to Nowhere
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Dike from Hell
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 33
Pearls Before Swine
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 56
Neuromancer
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 11
Lesbian Seagulls
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
Littlefoot
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 20
Flashdance
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 12
Pudgy Gumbies
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pentapass
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Pentapitch
 503
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Japanese Terraces
 56
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Sasquatch
 429
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Nubbins Direct
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Endless Torment
 65
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Nubbins to Nowhere
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Dike from Hell
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pearls Before Swine
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Neuromancer
 56
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lesbian Seagulls
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Sport
Littlefoot
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Flashdance
 20
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad, TR
Pudgy Gumbies
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Pentapitch Area »

Weather Averages

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Photos

pentapitch is a LCC classic. Don't skip the last pitch, it is a great pitch when run together as a long single pitch, and has great exposure while padding over to the tree that is no longer there! BONUS!! Also, if you have done "sasquatch" a million times, try "Ginseng", a nice alternate route to the right of sasquatch, it has a reachy 10a crux, but is very rewarding moves. Mar 12, 2002
The description how to get to this rock is confusing if you've never been there before. The two large pine trees are bigger than the other large pine trees in the area and are a few feet off the road to the left, at the third trail that branches off the road. Stay along the right edge of the boulder field and go to the top right corner of it, where a short trail will lead you to the base of pentapitch. Sasquatch is to the right, and begins on a low angle slab below an overhang. Jun 24, 2002
There is now a piton where the tree used to be. Too bad, because you could get a small stopper and a small cam as pro. Jan 21, 2004
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
No pitons on Pentapitch currently in May 2004. May 18, 2004
Tico  
My current favorite link-up is Neuromancer -> Sasquatch -> Pentapitch.
Nice and varied climbing, and it gets easier the higher you go. Also a nice way to skip the crowds on Pentapitch proper. May 25, 2007
two important tips that would've helped us first-timers to the area:
1) to get to pentapitch, DON'T turn at the pipe! this gets you waist-deep in weeds. instead, keep walking past the pipe until you see two massive pine trees on the left and large stone steps leading to the right across a muddy area. after only about a minute you'll walk into a large talus field. follow the right edge of this to the base of pentapitch area.
2) the pitch following sasquatch feels much more difficult than 5.8 and involves more slab climbing than we trad climbers were prepared for. we had a doubled/tripled rack and still ran out of little pro to .75 because the tiny finger-tip crack was all there was. great climb, but be prepared! Aug 31, 2009
grk10vq    
i had the pleasure of witnessing the latter half of that shit show, i couldn't figure out how you guys ran out of gear 15 feet above the anchor on a pitch requiring roughly four pieces?

glad you survived. Aug 31, 2009
rth
Salt Lake City
rth   Salt Lake City
requested update on the pump house bridge to get to the pentapitch area. Is there a replacement in place or in the works? Jun 8, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
no bridge as of 6/12/11, and probably won't be for at least a few months. Jun 12, 2011
Left some sportiva mythos at the base yesterday. Please send me a message if you find them. Sep 8, 2016

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