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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Mike Tea, Roxanne Tea 1995
Page Views: 2,105 total, 11/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 8, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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22 Opinions

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A fun route if you have done sasquatch a million times! Step right off of the sasquatch ledge, trend right toward double cracks, straight up offwidth to tree, left out onto face to top. reachy 10a move protected with brass nuts (maybe an alien), very cool, and a fun alternative. A touch trickier than sasquatch, but not as sustained.

Protection

standard rack, handful of brass.

Photos

Tea
Tea  
This climb starts off the Sasquatch belay ledge, NOT the newer rap station by the tree. The "Barn Door Moves" are trending right up flakes into the three cracks in this picture. Sep 12, 2016
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
I believe the initial "barn door" moves as described in the guidebook were for when the anchor was not present. The crack above takes standard nuts or a green alien down low, opening up to a nice #0.3-#0.4 at the top before the final opening moves.

The crux is short and ends at a glory jug. Sew it up or gun for it!

The climb is definitely worthy and a great alternative if Sasquatch has a queue. Sep 1, 2014
Tea
Tea  
looking bushy these days, add one bottle of roundup to the rack! Best to link directly into littlefoot for a nice long pitch. Jul 14, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a
Brass really aren't needed. I used a Blue Wild Country Zero, and a Purple DMM, and like a 6 wall nut, maybe a 5, to protect on the lower cracks. All good pieces. Exciting lead. Jun 30, 2006
I beleive that the FA belongs to a Mike Tea Mar 3, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10a
A fun layaway sequence down low leads to a boring offwidth that climbs like a gully. This in turn, leads to a fun short face. Too inconsistent to be good, but worth doing. Aug 2, 2005
This is a fun, though sadly, overlooked route. Give it a shot if you are waiting for Sasquatch, or to tick another route on teh wall, but bring some brass, or maybe a black Alien (I used that). Too bad it doesn't get climbed enough to keep the grass out of the moves down low. If it was anywhere than next to Sasquatch, it would be climbed more. At the top, angle left, and climb the slab to Sasquatch anchors. May 23, 2005