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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Lynn Wheeler, Dan Hall, Jim Irvine, 1977
Page Views: 22,273 total, 113/month
Shared By: Mike Kempt on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

High quality single pitch trad line. Fun moves on excellent rock. Thin crack crux above small roof protects well.

Protection

#3 Camalot at start, then TCU's or stoppers. A few long runners helpful. Chains at top for anchor.

Location

The start is found on a ledge to the right of Pentapitch and just above the level of the top of the first pitch belay of Pentapitch.

The easiest way to get there is to climb the first pitch of Pentapitch and go right of the tree and up to the ledge rather than left of the tree.
Deez nuts! Jul 16, 2017
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.9
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.9
So rad. Jul 8, 2016
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
Climbed this in the dark last night with headlamps. Can't get over how rad this climb is! A #3 works for the start but a #4 works way better if you have it. IMO the crux section takes nuts better than cams. Sep 5, 2015
S.Cohen
 
S.Cohen  
 
Just did this one again today and again, it was all time. Some thin fingers and some bomber fingers. The slabby face provides an excellent ending to this classic LCC crack. Sep 23, 2014
klane Lane  
 
Amazing finger crack--perfect for lady fingers!! Jul 29, 2013
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
One of the best cracks in Little Cottonwood. I think it's harder than Green A, but whatever. Doesn't change the quality! Jul 20, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
One of those climbs that will vary in difficulty wildly depending on finger size. I have monster fingers so it was a desperate Green A style smearfest on greasy edges. The climb probably feels 5.8 or easier for people with small fingers. May 27, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Sean, that would be Littlefoot, fun touchy S side slab. Apr 25, 2012
sean roberds
sandy,ut
sean roberds   sandy,ut
A nice fun variation is pulling off to the right to the bolts after th crux. makes for some great fun. Apr 24, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
^^^ That's what I said yesterday - its Yosemite in the Wasatch! So superb!!! Leaving the crack right below the top for the slab is a nice way to finish. Aug 1, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9+
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9+
Once you get above the roof, the climbing is simply awesome and rivals any 5.9 finger crack in Yosemite. Jul 4, 2011
Michael Buchanan  
  5.9
Awesome route. Easier and less sustained then the Green A, but the ambiance of the trees makes you feel like you are in a better place. Love this climb! Aug 17, 2010
Brian G
  5.9
Brian G  
  5.9
One of the best (for my) finger(s) cracks in the canyon. I love this line and always enjoy it. Super good gear the whole way! May 21, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Did this again recently. Solid 5.9b. Aug 21, 2009
grk10vq    
i'd like to contribute how important, accurate, and final, ratings are . . . always. Mar 9, 2009
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
  5.9
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
  5.9
I would like to contribute to the rating argument. Just to stir the waters...But really, If bushwack crack is 5.8 how can this climb be 5.9+? Must be the grease factor on bushwack that makes it feel harder than sasquatch.. Mar 9, 2009
Tea
Tea  
What's with the sloppy gloop around the 3! bolts and the longshoreman's shipping chain? Holy anchor your tugboat to that bad-boy! (also...there is an active bee's nest in the tree trunk at the lower anchor) Oct 8, 2008
grk10vq    
the rating is fair, you're just incredibly strong. take your guns to the green A and do gordon's hangover. that ones soft for the grade as well. don't forget to spray, i mean, tell us all about it. Sep 15, 2008
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
  5.9-
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
  5.9-
Is it just me or does this seem like a soft 5.9. I climbed it today and it is my first 5.9 trad lead. Did it no problem. Maybe I'm just improving (or have thin fingers,) but I had a hell of a lot harder leads on 5.8's, Satan's Corner for example. Or maybe I just psyched myself up for my first 5.9 for so long that when it turned out to be not so bad it was a bit of a let down. Don't get me wrong, it is an AWESOME crack climb. I just was expecting to get more scared on this one. Sep 14, 2008
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
  5.9+
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
  5.9+
another must do lcc route. the tips section was intense and the gear is really good the whole route. i would say the leave the number 3 at home because there are places at the start that take nuts. there is a pretty easy traverse to the belay from the top of the first pitch of pentapitch. I took my buddy on this for his first crack climb and he loved it. Jul 23, 2008
Casey Jenen
  5.9
Casey Jenen  
  5.9
This is on my list for best climbs in LCC, I think it is an awesome lead for new 5.9 climbers because protection is good. This is just a great route should not miss this one. Jul 23, 2008
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.9
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.9
One of my favorite routes in LCC. I thought that this was a bit easier than the coffin and Green-A. Maybe that's cause it sewed up and the holds were all there, except maybe that "tips" section which caused me to second guess and forfeit the onsight :( Great for beginning 5.9 trad leader! Jun 27, 2008
For a Traditional good time, lead it on all passive gear! May 7, 2008
oliver
 
oliver  
 
That is one of the best climbs I have ever done. just a good enjoyable crack with a little varation here and there. Jun 23, 2007
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.9
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.9
what a wasatch gem... Jun 17, 2007
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
What a great pitch. Top-roped it a bunch today. The crux is very distinct and ticklish, just a couple/few moves using just tips in the cracks and feet that aren't substantial. I can't wait to go back and do it again.
--Nate Apr 14, 2007
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
  5.9
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
  5.9
This is a great line for aspiring 5.9 leaders. There are ample opportunities to place gear wether cams or nuts. It takes both equally well. Just get up on it. Definately a classic hands/fingers climb!! Aug 28, 2006
Erik Gillis
  5.9
Erik Gillis  
  5.9
I loved this climb!! I lead it and found it hard to make nut placements though. I thought that the Green A was easier, as far as protecting, but that is just me. All in all a wonderful climb. Nov 11, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
This crack eats up those nuts. Cams are nice, but live a little. Aug 2, 2005
vincent pierce
  5.9+
vincent pierce  
  5.9+
Great climb that protects really well! One foot in the thin crack and one foot smearing the smooth lcc granite. Trust it! May 9, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.9
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.9
This is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere!

This is an easier lead than the Green Adjective (better pro); if you've done the Green A, you gotta do this one.

Mike suggests bringing a #3 camalot for the start. The start is a traversing undercling. It can be protected with either a #3 or a #2. However, it isn't a very good spot to stop and place a piece. If you just traverse past it, you will get to a great spot to plug in a #0.75. Above, you won't need anything bigger (I sometimes put a #1 in just below the roof), and you can leave the heavier stuff at home.

I would, however, recommend carring small cams in the blue and green alien range.

If you link this up with the top of Pentapitch, you won't need the big stuff up there either. Dec 1, 2004
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
 
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
 
Great fun. May 6, 2004
Howdy Folks- Nice page! I had a chance to climb this route with Lynn Wheeler shortly after the first ascent. I did many climbs with Lynn back in those days. Great to see Little CottonWood still receiving so much attention. Wheeler was one of a kind. Cheers!---Jeff Newsom Oct 30, 2003
The Best *** Mar 21, 2003
it is a great line i love hitting it at least 4or5 times a season Jan 19, 2002