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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Taylor, Dolf, Otto
Page Views: 1,795 total · 12/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 7, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

After you clear the roof on Sasquatch, step right, and I mean STEP. There is a nice chickenhead there, and your first clip. Here is where the fun begins. Very thin moves and minute crystals lead to a tenuous second clip. A little bit of rightward movement will allow the climbing to easxe up to the flake with the pin. From here the climbing eases to a hard 9 easy 10, but still holds your attention, with a bit more space between the pin, the bolt, and the anchors. A very enjoyable route, not intended to be climbed on hot muggy days, like today.

Protection

Littlefoot shares the beginning with Sasquatch, so bring your Sasquatch gear. It also shares the anchors. It has 3 bolts and a pin of it's own.

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Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This climb is excellent. Pretty hard second clip, but it's a clean fall(if there is such a thing on slab) if you blow it. Jul 1, 2011