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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Reynolds, Nichol, Cobabe
Page Views: 1,045 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Loch Ness Monster is west of Pentapitch, and consists of an edgy slab and a bouldery roof. Figuring out the sequence is half the problem. If a top-rope is desired, the crack system to the left can be climbed or scrambled up, depending on your comfort level.

Protection

2 draws are required for this climb, along with 2 more for the chain anchors. Possibly a piece before and after the bolts. Bring a runner for the lower piece.

Photos

Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.11a
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.11a
Not all that bad if you combine it with Ginseng to the top then rap, pull rope and do Sasquatch as a way to avoid the lines over on Pentapitch...but kinda an in-your-face start for the day...hard stem/pull over to sketchy foot and undercling rail...move fast then slap the upper sloping hand rail. Aug 13, 2017
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Not sure it's worth the effort. Good if you need one more burn after rappelling the buttress, but beyond that, there's not much. Sep 1, 2014
Lead this one again today, and the sequence, which the book isn't accurate about, defintely works right on the undercling above the roof. Still a tough little route. Aug 8, 2005