All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Pentapitch Area

Japanese Terraces

Name: Japanese Terraces
Rating: 2.7

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Pentapitch Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lesbian Seagulls S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Lewybody T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nuke the Whales T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	40.56859, -111.73767
FA:	Hannibal, Montague '79
Page Views:	8,640 total · 36/month
Shared By:	Craig Martin on Sep 28, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Little Cottonwood Access Update

Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.

The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.

Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.

Description

This enjoyable route follows a dihedral system to the left of the standard Pentapitch and finishes 30 feet above the last pitch anchor of Pentapitch at a large dead tree with slings. (The dead tree is now gone but plenty of options for a gear belay in the same location.)

Pitch 1: First pitch of Pentapitch or Neuromancer to the big ledge.

Pitch 2: Start on the far left of the big ledge and climb up a left facing dihedral. This pitch can be broken into two. Belay on the giant ledge shared with Pentapitch. 160' 5.7.

Pitch 3: From the far left edge of the giant ledge start up a left facing dihedral, pull through a bulge or two and belay at a large pine tree on a ledge strewn with boulders. 100' 5.7.

Pitch 4: Continue up yet another left facing dihedral. This is the best pitch with nice hands jams and laybacks. Very exposed near the top as you make a few moves to the right over a roof. Belay at a large dead tree with slings. This is the same pitch as the last on Coalpit Connection. 120' 5.8+.

Descent: Rappel Pentapitch.