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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hannibal, Montague '79
Page Views: 4,809 total, 35/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Sep 28, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This enjoyable route follows a dihedral system to the left of the standard Pentapitch and finishes 30 feet above the last pitch anchor of Pentapitch at a large dead tree with slings.

Pitch 1: First pitch of Pentapitch or Neuromancer to the big ledge.

Pitch 2: Start on the far left of the big ledge and climb up a left facing dihedral. This pitch can be broken into two. Belay on the giant ledge shared with Pentapitch. 160' 5.7.

Pitch 3: From the far left edge of the giant ledge start up a left facing dihedral, pull through a bulge or two and belay at a large pine tree on a ledge strewn with boulders. 100' 5.7.

Pitch 4: Continue up yet another left facing dihedral. This is the best pitch with nice hands jams and laybacks. Very exposed near the top as you make a few moves to the right over a roof. Belay at a large dead tree with slings. This is the same pitch as the last on Coalpit Connection. 120' 5.8+.

Descent: Rappel Pentapitch.

Location

This route starts from the ledge at the top of the 1st pitch of Pentapitch in a left facing dihedral.

Protection

Standard Rack, doubles on TCU's is nice, but not mandatory.

Photos

KG
SLC, UT
 
KG   SLC, UT
 
The last pitch on this route is incredible! I would highly recommend people to climb this just for the last pitch.

Agreed that its best to scramble over to the anchors for Pentapitch and rap down. Sep 18, 2016
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9-
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9-
Somehow got off route and totally missed the second pitch (third from ground) and ended up just around the corner from Pentapitch. Got back on route after a thrutchy corner that I think was not the correct way. The final pitch is a beast. Very strenuous and awkward. Bring your A game and expect non-stop 5.8+ moves for about half of the pitch.

IMPORTANT: The dead tree at the top of the route is NOT safe to use anymore. It is rocking back and forth and is going to come off the wall very soon. I carved an X into the trunk. I saw several slings on it which I removed. A gear anchor is very easy to set up at the same spot with some hand size cams. From there it is an easy scramble to the anchors at the top of Pentapitch. Jun 25, 2015
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
I thought this was pretty nebulous until the last really cool dihedral section. Didn't seem to match up all that well with the topo in the Ruckman guide.

We climbed P1 of Pentapitch. From there, with a 70 meter went to near the end of the rope up the easy dihedral just left of Pentaptich. Belay was easy to set on a small ledge with a tree off to the side and a crack for a directional well above the huge ledge in the middle of P3 of Pentapitch. Forgettable 5.5ish pitch with some loose rock. After that, a long pitch up a pretty wild feeling dihedral and steep face to a tree just above the last anchor on pentapitch. Hard, strenuous, wild 5.8 and really worth doing after the blah opening. Sep 9, 2012