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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Nelson, Oaks
Page Views: 2,748 total, 17/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Neuromancer climbs the slick slabs just left of Pentapitch, and it looks deceivingly easy. It starts hard and eases up a bit after the 2nd bolt.

Protection

Neuromancer requires 6 draws And 1-2 small pieces are optional.

Photos

Petz Pretz
Salt Lake City
Petz Pretz   Salt Lake City
Smear smear and smear again...sometimes no hands... Sep 2, 2009
Aimee Bates  
 
This climb is really fun! That being said, it kicked my ass. (On TR!) I "climbed" the beginning 3 different ways. Arete on definitely seemed the most feesible. Straight up the face is really hard with no hands and greasy feet. Using the crack to the left is significantly easier, prob more like 5.10a. Jun 20, 2009
Joseph Kolnik
Holladay, UT
  5.11b/c
Joseph Kolnik   Holladay, UT
  5.11b/c
I don't know about avoiding the first arete, but if you avoid the upper left arete and go strait up the face this thing is quite difficult. Hence the rating I put on it. Aug 13, 2008
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
spent some time on this don't need to use the arret the moves are there if you can find / stay on them Jun 8, 2006
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
If the arete is off, this climb doesn't seem like it would be as much fun. But definately harder - as I couldn't figure out the lower face moves; and used the arete ala "Fat Albert". Fun climb May 12, 2006
The older Ruckamn guide says that the arete is "off". Sep 13, 2005
Is the right arete on? Or do you go straight up the face without the crack on the left or arete (direct bolt line)? I did it basically laying back the blunt arete with one hand, crimping with the other. Sep 13, 2005
got lucky as hell and on-sighted this in july! Mar 23, 2005