Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Nelson, Oaks
Page Views: 3,011 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

Neuromancer climbs the slick slabs just left of Pentapitch, and it looks deceivingly easy. It starts hard and eases up a bit after the 2nd bolt.

Protection

Neuromancer requires 6 draws And 1-2 small pieces are optional.

Photos

got lucky as hell and on-sighted this in july! Mar 23, 2005
Is the right arete on? Or do you go straight up the face without the crack on the left or arete (direct bolt line)? I did it basically laying back the blunt arete with one hand, crimping with the other. Sep 13, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.11a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.11a
The older Ruckamn guide says that the arete is "off". Sep 13, 2005
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
If the arete is off, this climb doesn't seem like it would be as much fun. But definately harder - as I couldn't figure out the lower face moves; and used the arete ala "Fat Albert". Fun climb May 12, 2006
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
spent some time on this don't need to use the arret the moves are there if you can find / stay on them Jun 8, 2006
Joseph Kolnik
Holladay, UT
  5.11b/c
Joseph Kolnik   Holladay, UT
  5.11b/c
I don't know about avoiding the first arete, but if you avoid the upper left arete and go strait up the face this thing is quite difficult. Hence the rating I put on it. Aug 13, 2008
Aimee Bates  
 
This climb is really fun! That being said, it kicked my ass. (On TR!) I "climbed" the beginning 3 different ways. Arete on definitely seemed the most feesible. Straight up the face is really hard with no hands and greasy feet. Using the crack to the left is significantly easier, prob more like 5.10a. Jun 20, 2009
Petz Pretz
Salt Lake City
Petz Pretz   Salt Lake City
Smear smear and smear again...sometimes no hands... Sep 2, 2009