Avg: 2.9 from 90 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jonathan and Alison Smoot|
|Page Views:||5,385 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Louis Arevalo on Jul 14, 2003 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCAsaltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Getting to the first bolt after slotting a nut or two and sinking a tcu to begin the leftward movement puts you on your toes. Sidepulls and smears get you to the first-pitch belay. The second pitch is a bit harder but is protected well with 2 bolts and a old pin.