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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jonathan and Alison Smoot
Page Views: 3,848 total, 22/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Jul 14, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

To the left of Pentapitch, the route is rarely occupied.

Getting to the first bolt after slotting a nut or two and sinking a tcu to begin the leftward movement puts you on your toes. Sidepulls and smears get you to the first-pitch belay. The second pitch is a bit harder but is protected well with 2 bolts and a old pin.

Protection

Handful of tcu's and a few draws

Photos

Shadow Ayala
Lexington, Kentucky
  5.10b
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, Kentucky
  5.10b
Great route!! This one will wake you up if you are doing it as a warm up. BD Micro Stoppers are money on this climb. I liked them better than the micro cam placements. Classic, fun, and spicy. May 12, 2017
KG
SLC, UT
  5.10b PG13
KG   SLC, UT
  5.10b PG13
This route was awesome. Super fun climbing that will make you think.
Some spice thrown in there too.

Rack:
Single .1, .2, .4, .5 BD
Double: .3 BD
Single set of nuts and 8 draws.

Nothing above a .5 is needed. There is a really good spot for a .5/.75 offset cam about 20 feet up. Bring it if you have it.

Link both pitches.
70m will get you down in one rap. Oct 11, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Rapping with a single 60 and stretch will get you to the tree at the base. Unfortunate where the first bolt (replacing the old pin) was placed - right where you want your feet. Oct 17, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Not for the faint of heart. The first pitch has good gear up until a spicy traverse right to the belay chains has you at least 10 feet above your last placement. The 2nd pitch looks sparse to get to the first bolt but a .3 camalot crack appears in the short dihedral. Clip the first bolt, then run it out on thin slab to the 2nd thin dihedral with NO GEAR! Luckily it gets easier once you hit the dihedral and the 2nd bolt appears after you land your foot on a huge jug. This is a 20 foot stretch above that last bolt. Clip the 3rd fixed piece, a pin, and its over. Basically bring 3 draws and a .3 camalot for this pitch. Yikes. Aug 7, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b PG13
Wonderful line - classic LLC slab and thin lie off climb. Why it took me nearly 30 years to do this is unclear. The route combines the need for gear placement skills with thin slab technique and has a nice little runnout near the top (why would anyone stop at the chains - do the whole pitch for the full experience). As for the question above regarding the upper part of the climb - climb past the midway bolts to a short lie back straight above (good gear), clip the bolt, climb up and right on slab to the left facing shallow corner, clip a bolt, climb up to a pin and then back to the belay chains. Jul 22, 2011
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
First pitch is good in its own right. A better description of the second pitch would be nice too. Sep 20, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
A 70m rope gets you down in one rap. Jul 3, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
 
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
 
That bolt is useless, there's pro 6" from it.
The climbing is really fun and quite technical, especially for the 9+ given in the book for the first part. The slaby moves to get to the first belay feel quite spicy since your last micro is a ways down.
I'll be back to do the second half Jun 13, 2008
Tea
Tea  
A must do pitch on the circuit. Too bad it now sports a poorly located bolt down low, placed by some total nutsack not involved in the FA. Great full pitch. May 16, 2007
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.10b
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.10b
Good to do both pitches in one lead, as there are no chains at the first belay, and it is otherwise a bit short. It is possible to get down from the top with one rope (with rope stretch! so tie a not) and you wind up just behind the tree at the bottom. From the first set of anchors, I climbed up through two bolts and traversed right across the face to the undercling. A bit run out on thin moves, but very exciting! Oct 20, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b
Great route with a bit of variety, some spicy protection, and delicate moves. I got off route and did the (Endless Seagull?) variation. After the 5.10b crux, I wandered left on to Lesbian Seagulls, and did that 5.10d d-d-d-delicate move, past the two bolts. Jul 2, 2005
did this route the other day, wonderful climb! What is the bolted line starting just right and shares the end section of Torment? Used HB's in several locations, considered them more bomber than tcu's in a couple of spots. Jul 19, 2004