Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jonathan and Alison Smoot
Page Views: 4,266 total · 23/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Jul 14, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

70 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details


To the left of Pentapitch, the route is rarely occupied.

Getting to the first bolt after slotting a nut or two and sinking a tcu to begin the leftward movement puts you on your toes. Sidepulls and smears get you to the first-pitch belay. The second pitch is a bit harder but is protected well with 2 bolts and a old pin.


Handful of tcu's and a few draws


did this route the other day, wonderful climb! What is the bolted line starting just right and shares the end section of Torment? Used HB's in several locations, considered them more bomber than tcu's in a couple of spots. Jul 19, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Great route with a bit of variety, some spicy protection, and delicate moves. I got off route and did the (Endless Seagull?) variation. After the 5.10b crux, I wandered left on to Lesbian Seagulls, and did that 5.10d d-d-d-delicate move, past the two bolts. Jul 2, 2005
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
Good to do both pitches in one lead, as there are no chains at the first belay, and it is otherwise a bit short. It is possible to get down from the top with one rope (with rope stretch! so tie a not) and you wind up just behind the tree at the bottom. From the first set of anchors, I climbed up through two bolts and traversed right across the face to the undercling. A bit run out on thin moves, but very exciting! Oct 20, 2005
A must do pitch on the circuit. Too bad it now sports a poorly located bolt down low, placed by some total nutsack not involved in the FA. Great full pitch. May 16, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b PG13
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b PG13
That bolt is useless, there's pro 6" from it.
The climbing is really fun and quite technical, especially for the 9+ given in the book for the first part. The slaby moves to get to the first belay feel quite spicy since your last micro is a ways down.
I'll be back to do the second half.

Edit: not sure what bolt I or Tea were referring to at this point. Only found the original single bolt on the 1st pitch. No way to clip any hardware from Dike from Hell / Lesbian Seagull without getting seriously off route (see Nathan's comment & variation, he wandered left to the 2 bolts of Dike from Hell). Keep your shit together once you come out of the 1st dihedral, it's a ways to the next bolt. Jun 13, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
A 70m rope gets you down in one rap. Jul 3, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
First pitch is good in its own right. A better description of the second pitch would be nice too. Sep 20, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10b PG13
Wonderful line - classic LLC slab and thin lie off climb. Why it took me nearly 30 years to do this is unclear. The route combines the need for gear placement skills with thin slab technique and has a nice little runnout near the top (why would anyone stop at the chains - do the whole pitch for the full experience). As for the question above regarding the upper part of the climb - climb past the midway bolts to a short lie back straight above (good gear), clip the bolt, climb up and right on slab to the left facing shallow corner, clip a bolt, climb up to a pin and then back to the belay chains. Jul 22, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Not for the faint of heart. The first pitch has good gear up until a spicy traverse right to the belay chains has you at least 10 feet above your last placement. The 2nd pitch looks sparse to get to the first bolt but a .3 camalot crack appears in the short dihedral. Clip the first bolt, then run it out on thin slab to the 2nd thin dihedral with NO GEAR! Luckily it gets easier once you hit the dihedral and the 2nd bolt appears after you land your foot on a huge jug. This is a 20 foot stretch above that last bolt. Clip the 3rd fixed piece, a pin, and its over. Basically bring 3 draws and a .3 camalot for this pitch. Yikes. Aug 7, 2011
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Rapping with a single 60 and stretch will get you to the tree at the base. Unfortunate where the first bolt (replacing the old pin) was placed - right where you want your feet. Oct 17, 2014
  5.10b PG13
  5.10b PG13
This route was awesome. Super fun climbing that will make you think.
Some spice thrown in there too.

Single .1, .2, .4, .5 BD
Double: .3 BD
Single set of nuts and 8 draws.

Nothing above a .5 is needed. There is a really good spot for a .5/.75 offset cam about 20 feet up. Bring it if you have it.

Link both pitches.
70m will get you down in one rap. Oct 11, 2015
Shadow Ayala
Lexington, KY
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, KY
Great route!! This one will wake you up if you are doing it as a warm up. BD Micro Stoppers are money on this climb. I liked them better than the micro cam placements. Classic, fun, and spicy. May 12, 2017
Nicholas Spiropulos
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Nicholas Spiropulos   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Bring offset nuts and offset cams for protection on first pitch. The distance between the first and second bolt on the second pitch is about 20 ft. A fall would not be good. Jun 12, 2018