Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: FA: Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963 FFA: George Lowe, Paul Andersen, 1966
Page Views: 2,369 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 7, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the thin seam that starts below and to the right of Pentapitch's final pitch. The moves to the crack are fine. The moves through the 2nd pin are very thin, and the face doesn't help that much. The tenuos nature of the moves doesn't lend oneself to dallying around and placing gear. Once to the 2nd pin, the route eases to a 5.9/5.8 difficulty with nice finger cracks and flaky rock. If climbed more it would be a better upper half.

Protection

There are 2 old pins on the route, one that protects the crux. The anchor consists of "bad" slings around a tree. To TR it throw another sling around the tree as a directional and use Pentapitch's anchors. The gear through the thin section is just that...thin. I mocked it up, and could find nothing before the 2nd pin that would satisfy my need for gear. Above the 2nd pin, small to medium gear would work.

Photos

Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.11c PG13
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.11c PG13
I'm not sure how anyone gets gear in below the bolt. I fiddled around with everything including a 000, ball nuts, and brass. Ended up placing 2 cams in the penta pitch ramp extended with runners and quick draws then going to the bolt. Found placements for 3 offset brassies and a blue ball nut for the crux but had to shave it down to 1 piece of brass and the blue ball nut since the key footholds were all blocked. Lowe was probaby the most under appreciated climber of his time, this thing is spicy. Aug 31, 2017
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
  5.11c PG13
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
  5.11c PG13
Someone replaced the lower pin with a bolt. The route has the same go for it nature, but without gambling on the pin. Thanks to whoever added it! It is easy to traverse up and left to the final Pentapitch anchor as one long pitch. May 7, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Just now seeing bsmoot's comment about the FFA. Wow. Having freed the route, and considering the date, had it been anyone else but George, I'd be super skeptical. But when someone calls Crack of Doom "5.9 with a boulder start" you know they're in a league of their own! Jun 4, 2014
super good line. purple c3 works after traverse right. then a small bd micro nut. piton's solid, works after small off-set ripped. love watching slow motion, gear ripping falls. keep your shit straight. Aug 7, 2009
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I fell at the end of the thin crack right before it eases up and ripped 4 micro nuts and thankfully, the first pin caught and held. The fall also pulled out the two micro nuts I had placed below the pin. That left me with the old angle, and one cam where I left the pentapitch crack and climbed right onto the slab. I give this thing R fo' show'. Lady fingers would help, and there is no reliable gear through the 10 feet of the crux. Even when I fell and tried to fiddle in gear on the hang, it was marginal at best- and I had HB offsets, microcams, and metolius astronuts. Sep 28, 2008
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
 
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
 
If you like the green a you will love this climb. This is the green a on steroids. The climb stays fun the entire way and the upper crack eases up considerably. This climb definately favors those climbers with small fingers. Jun 10, 2008
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
More history - this actually the original finish to Pentapitch. So the FA using aid should be Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963, with the FFA George Lowe & Paul Andersen, 1966. The pins were probably placed by Reese. (Source Rick Reese). Sep 21, 2007
tenesmus  
 
00 tcu, bad brassies, maybe those tiny friends. the crux is placing them. I haven't been able to feel good about that pin. can you imagine placing pins on it like George did? during the onsite fa? in boots? Aug 29, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
I somehow flashed this on TR today, so thoughts of a lead obviously enter my head... What's the verdict on the first pin? Has anybody fallen on it? Looks like it might be able to be backed up with a small piece in the pin scar below it, but that seems like the last reasonable placement through the crux sequence. There is a stance a little higher maybe I could place from. There are only a few really shitty pin scars on this thing, you're not that far above the pin when you're most likely to blow it... Aug 28, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.11c PG13
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.11c PG13
Protection would be adequate with some RPs, but you would have to place gear at your waist, otherwise there would be no room for your fingertips in those tiny pin scars. If the top were more like the crux section, I would project this climb in a heartbeat. Jul 1, 2007
tenesmus  
 
Mind blowing. Jun 19, 2007
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
Recent historical revelation: First free ascent: George Lowe & Paul Anderson, 1966 Jun 10, 2007