Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: FA: Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963 FFA: George Lowe, Paul Andersen, 1966
Page Views: 4,199 total · 18/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 7, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the thin seam that starts below and to the right of Pentapitch's final pitch. The moves to the crack are fine. The moves through the 2nd pin are very thin, and the face doesn't help that much. The tenuos nature of the moves doesn't lend oneself to dallying around and placing gear. Once to the 2nd pin, the route eases to a 5.9/5.8 difficulty with nice finger cracks and flaky rock. If climbed more it would be a better upper half.

Protection Suggest change

There are 2 old pins on the route, one that protects the crux. The anchor consists of "bad" slings around a tree. To TR it throw another sling around the tree as a directional and use Pentapitch's anchors. The gear through the thin section is just that...thin. I mocked it up, and could find nothing before the 2nd pin that would satisfy my need for gear. Above the 2nd pin, small to medium gear would work.