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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 1,506 total, 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 27, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is the new route just right (kind of) of Endless Torment. It starts in the crack, and then works right to the bolt. It continues up the right side past 2 pitons and 3 more bolts, as it angles left just above the crux of Endless Torment. Whereas the climbing below has been straightforward low 5.10 climbing, after you cross the crux of Endless Torment, the climbing becomes extremly heady. The lack of climbers on this great route keep the holds un-chalked, so the sequence may require YOU to think. Although, after my foray up this route this afternoon, there is a lot more chalk than there was. This is a worthy diversion if Pentapitch/Sasquatch are busy.

Protection

1 bolt, followed by 2 pitons, followed by 5 bolts.

Photos

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bheller
SL UT
  5.11a
bheller   SL UT
  5.11a
The above route information contains some errors.


A gem of a slab route that gets a bit strange where it meets/crosses Endless Torment. I recently spoke with FA party to sort out the intended line. Turns out Troy Anderson bolted this on lead over several days while drilling from stances. Cool. Tyler Phillips then was graciously offered the first true lead and managed to surprise them both with the on-sight for the FFA after it was equipped. Even Cooler.

Here's the beta on the intended route: Lesbian Seagull shares the start with Endless Torment, about 15 feet up depart the crack to the right (natural gear needed here) and lieback the shallow left facing flake feature with some steep and delicate smears to gain the first bolt. These bolts sport some strange Euro-looking hangers. Continue wandering up the line of weakness on the slab right of Endless Torment. A couple of knife-blades in thin cracks are climbed past, and a few more well placed bolts lead to the crux in the middle of the slab. Now the route joins the crux of Endless Torment, strangely sneaking in from the right to enter the groove/shallow left facing dihedral, here the two routes share in the clipping of ET's crux bolt. From here to the finish, the routes are identical- they cast off right to finish with Endless Torment's crux and the bolted overlaps to slab finale.

My feelings: 2.5 stars 11a no R. May 13, 2015