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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Dunno.
Page Views: 713 total, 124/month
Shared By: zoso on Jun 22, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a good alternate to the 1st pitch of Pentapitch; a good way to pass other parties if you're headed for another route up higher.

Start on the slab just left of the dirt to keep the rubber clean. Follow the obvious low angle crack, traverse left to a left-facing flake that swallows pro. At the flake's terminus, use the next obvious crack that takes you to a small pine tree. Chains are just up and right of the tree.

Location

20 feet right of Pentapitch is this very obvious line connecting edges, cracks, and flake features. Continue higher or rap with a 60m down Jackalope.

Protection

Gear to #1 Camalot. Chains up top shared with Jackalope.

Photos

greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.7
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.7
Good addition to the area. There is fun movement between cracks linking the features. Aug 16, 2017
Scott Morris
Bountiful, Utah
  5.7
Scott Morris   Bountiful, Utah
  5.7
If you're looking for granite 5.7 trad climbs, this one didn't disappoint. Great rock, great gear, fun movement. Worthwhile in its own right. Jul 19, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
No it is right of your pic. Jul 17, 2017
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
20 feet right? You mean the clean corner maybe 5 feet right?

See cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim…

Agree it is a good start for Sasquatch if Pentapitch is occupied, and more direct. Good name, definitely better than D.A.D. Jul 17, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Your mind is 10 feet left of reality. Jul 15, 2017
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
This in my mind has always been a first pitch variation of Pentapitch. Several guides have used this for lead training for many years to help avoid clogging the start of the standard start of the route. Jul 15, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
I fell like a tree! Thanks for the change. Jun 27, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Ok then. I changed it to FRA. Does that one little letter help you fell better? Jun 26, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
All these low lying gems just lying in wait. Reminds me about this "FA".

mountainproject.com/v/die-a… Jun 26, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
We've climbed this variation a bunch of times over the years. Good addition to the data base. Jun 22, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
It's relatively probable that this has been climbed either back in the 70's or of late. It was chock-full of dirt though, had loose rock and lots of dead branches in the way but is quite clean now. Just get your grubby little hands on it and clean it further. Jun 22, 2017