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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Pat Malony, George Rosenthal & Tim Wolfe
Page Views: 3,087 total, 19/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Jun 4, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Direct finish to the last pitch of Pentapitch. Tenuous, steep slab moves lead to interesting inverted edges. From the middle anchor on the last pitch of Pentapitch head up and slightly right following the bolts.

Protection

6 quickdraws and chain anchors. It is best to lead this in one pitch from the giant ledge. No chance of factor 2 fall that way, as the first crux is between the middle anchor and the first bolt of this pitch.

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Jaron a
SLC
 
Jaron a   SLC
 
Great sustained slabbin' and thin face climbing. It's comforting to climb an lcc slab that is so well protected. Aug 23, 2017
Danie White
SLC, UT
 
Danie White   SLC, UT
 
Fun and precarious all at once. While this is quite well bolted by LCC standards, the biggest spacing is between bolts 1&2, which makes you feel like you'll dive bomb your belayer if you peel there and they are stationed at the closest anchor. So there's another reason for belaying down lower. Sep 27, 2014
George Rosenthal Gave this route the name "Pearls Before Swine" the day of the first ascent.
If DR. Wolfe is in agreement i think we should let George have the final word on this one. A solid 10c. Oct 19, 2009
I've climbed this route several times, usually after doing the final pentapitch route. Rap down to the chains and give it a go....I've always wondered what this route is and would agree with the 10 c rating again at the first bolt area....Great Job Tim Oct 15, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10c
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10c
Come on Tim, give us a name. Jun 2, 2006
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c
Pat Malony, George Rosenthal and I put this route up a few years ago. A jewel right in our face for years. No particular name, just a great slab climb without the serious runnouts on other slabs (it was rap drilled so we decided it needed to be fairly safe). I have climbed it 4 times. I think it is about 10c, definately harder than Fin arete or Kermits Wad, a bit easier than Angels Ladder or Dorsal Fin. Jun 2, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10c
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10c
Great line that adds another fun slab pitch to Neuromancer/Nubbins lines. A little insecure getting to the first bolt, to say the least. I just kept thinking factor 2 fall, factor 2 fall. Beyond that the climbing is consistent, fun, non-LCC slab. Aug 8, 2005
I think Tim Wolfe and pat maloney put up this bolted finish to Pentapitch, not anyone named Brian?I can't remember the name, though. Jul 2, 2005
Vince Romney
  5.10c
Vince Romney  
  5.10c
If this is the line of bolts ascending directly up from the belay chains for the last pitch of Pentapitch, I think it is .10c. I met the guy while toproping at Strategem(first name Brian) who put it up . He said it was .10c. I did it last year and felt that was reasonably accurate, particularly between the 3rd and 4th bolt, where you have those inverted edges on the left, and nothing significant anywhere else. So, if you did this route and felt it was 9+, you are truly the slab monster... Jun 7, 2004