PRINT: Rock Climb Pearls Before Swine, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Pearls Before Swine

5.10c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 64 votes
FA: Pat Malony, George Rosenthal & Tim Wolfe
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Pentapitch Area

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Little Cottonwood Access Update

Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.

The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.

Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.

Description

Direct finish to the last pitch of Pentapitch. Tenuous, steep slab moves lead to interesting inverted edges. From the middle anchor on the last pitch of Pentapitch head up and slightly right following the bolts.

Protection

6 quickdraws and chain anchors. It is best to lead this in one pitch from the giant ledge. No chance of factor 2 fall that way, as the first crux is between the middle anchor and the first bolt of this pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Loving those awesome hands...

95% smearing

Inverted edges...

On the unknown 5.10c

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Vince Romney

5.10c

If this is the line of bolts ascending directly up from the belay chains for the last pitch of Pentapitch, I think it is .10c. I met the guy while toproping at Strategem(first name Brian) who put it up . He said it was .10c. I did it last year and felt that was reasonably accurate, particularly between the 3rd and 4th bolt, where you have those inverted edges on the left, and nothing significant anywhere else. So, if you did this route and felt it was 9+, you are truly the slab monster... Jun 7, 2004

Anonymous Coward

I think Tim Wolfe and pat maloney put up this bolted finish to Pentapitch, not anyone named Brian?I can't remember the name, though. Jul 2, 2005

Nathan Fisher
West Bountiful

5.10c

Great line that adds another fun slab pitch to Neuromancer/Nubbins lines. A little insecure getting to the first bolt, to say the least. I just kept thinking factor 2 fall, factor 2 fall. Beyond that the climbing is consistent, fun, non-LCC slab. Aug 8, 2005

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10c

Pat Malony, George Rosenthal and I put this route up a few years ago. A jewel right in our face for years. No particular name, just a great slab climb without the serious runnouts on other slabs (it was rap drilled so we decided it needed to be fairly safe). I have climbed it 4 times. I think it is about 10c, definately harder than Fin arete or Kermits Wad, a bit easier than Angels Ladder or Dorsal Fin. Jun 2, 2006

Nathan Fisher
West Bountiful

5.10c

Come on Tim, give us a name. Jun 2, 2006

steve santora

I've climbed this route several times, usually after doing the final pentapitch route. Rap down to the chains and give it a go....I've always wondered what this route is and would agree with the 10 c rating again at the first bolt area....Great Job Tim Oct 15, 2006

Patrick Maloney

George Rosenthal Gave this route the name "Pearls Before Swine" the day of the first ascent.
If DR. Wolfe is in agreement i think we should let George have the final word on this one. A solid 10c. Oct 19, 2009

Danie White
SLC, UT

Fun and precarious all at once. While this is quite well bolted by LCC standards, the biggest spacing is between bolts 1&2, which makes you feel like you'll dive bomb your belayer if you peel there and they are stationed at the closest anchor. So there's another reason for belaying down lower. Sep 27, 2014

Jaron a
SLC

Great sustained slabbin' and thin face climbing. It's comforting to climb an lcc slab that is so well protected. Aug 23, 2017

Scott Stevenson
SLC, UT

5.10c

Felt like the crux was moving past bolt 1. Seems like everyone feels differently about where the hardest part actually is. Give it a try and find your crux of the route. Jun 10, 2019

Jules Bodiford
SLC

This is a must-do for any slab lover. While it's well bolted for lcc slab, it will still feel heady because the moves are on you the whole time, and you really have to think about using the features available. This climb will be thought provoking if you're used to pure friction slab. Belay from the big ledge below and take a few small cams to protect up to the middle anchors to prevent a factor two. If you like this, try Romance on the Rocks in Altered States. Jun 14, 2024