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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 85 ft, Grade VI
FA: Dallen Ward, Bryce Perkins
Page Views: 977 total · 70/month
Shared By: zoso on Jun 22, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

This crack doesn't look like much but it's surprisingly worthy. Once the crack terminates, follow 3 bolts up the slab to a chain anchor.
This is a direct line to Sasquatch etc, or you can rap with a 60m.

Location

This is right around the corner from Pentapitch on the way to Loch Ness Monster (and eventually The Industrial Wall). Drop yer pack at the first crack you see on your left. Obvious, not mythical like the Great American Jackalope.

Protection

Small to large nuts and a small cam/TCU. 3 draws. Bomber gear.

Photos

zoso
 
zoso  
 
You can also throw a TR on the slab to the left of this for ~40 feet of 5.9ish slabbin. Jun 22, 2017
This is one of the very few climbs I can actually lead in all of LCC. I would say the crack is closer to 5.6 and the upper part is 5.4. You could use this climb to get to the chains at the top of the first pitch of Pentapitch. Jul 29, 2017
BrokenChairs BrettC
Sultan, WA
BrokenChairs BrettC   Sultan, WA
Grade VI IN THE WASATCH!!!!

and all this time I thought Dogwood was the El Cap of the Wasatch. What is the best way to haul on this route? Are there any good bivy spots?

In all seriousness is this even an actual route? I always thought it was just the way to beat people to the Sasquatch start when there's a queue at Penta. Aug 14, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Maybe it's somewhat similar, but better than this:

mountainproject.com/v/10766…

But it's still a good route for beginners. It's actually OK to have EZ routes even if one is a world class climber. Aug 14, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.7
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.7
If you follow the bolt line it's 5.6 or 7 slab probably 5.6L for lichen right now. Short but fun. Aug 16, 2017

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