Avg: 3.5 from 691 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963|
|Page Views:||54,821 total · 228/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Kempt on Sep 26, 2001|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCAsaltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Features fun crack- and face-climbing on quality granite. The second plus third and the fourth plus fifth pitches can be easily run together into two pitches if you keep rope drag down with use of long runners.
Descend by numerous rap stations available on right side of route (adjacent to Sasquatch). All raps can be done with a single 50 meter rope.
P1. Take the shallow dihedral to the right of the bolted face and corner of Neuromancer. Not the larger dihedral 5 more feet to the right (with bushes). Fantastic fingers and flakes merge with the right dihedral up to a very shapely pine tree 100' up. 5.6 or 5.7.
P2. More great flakes and fingers straight up the crack from the chains on P1. Finish slightly left at a tree, or better yet, combine with P3. 5.7.
P3. Easy climbing up a block crack that trends to the right. Belay at a slung tree. The least interesting pitch of the climb. 5.5.
P4. Scramble straight up up 3rd class terrain to the base of the large face above you. You can see a set of chains in the middle of the face and bolts above them. Start on easy climbing for 15' going slightly left, then back right to a large ledge that is not easily visible from below. This protects better and is much easier than it appears. Follow the ramp to the chains you can see from the belay in the middle of the face. Best to combine this the P5. 5.7.
P5. The money pitch! From the chains, make a delicate couple moves almost straight left to gain the finger size crack in the face. It's sporty, but there's tons of good pro in that crack for nuts or small cams. When the crack ends, use flakes to go slight right and up to a single bolt. From there, head up and left (5.7) or right (5.8) to a tree, then find chains on a ledge to the right. 5.8 heady!