Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963
Page Views: 49,792 total · 218/month
Shared By: Mike Kempt on Sep 26, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

A classic Little Cottonwood multi pitch-climb.

Features fun crack- and face-climbing on quality granite. The second plus third and the fourth plus fifth pitches can be easily run together into two pitches if you keep rope drag down with use of long runners.

Descend by numerous rap stations available on right side of route (adjacent to Sasquatch). All raps can be done with a single 50 meter rope.

P1. Take the shallow dihedral to the right of the bolted face and corner of Neuromancer.  Not the larger dihedral 5 more feet to the right (with bushes).  Fantastic fingers and flakes merge with the right dihedral up to a very shapely pine tree 100' up.  5.6 or 5.7.

P2. More great flakes and fingers straight up the crack from the chains on P1.  Finish slightly left at a tree, or better yet, combine with P3.  5.7.

P3. Easy climbing up a block crack that trends to the right.  Belay at a slung tree.  The least interesting pitch of the climb.  5.5.

P4. Scramble straight up up 3rd class terrain to the base of the large face above you.  You can see a set of chains in the middle of the face and bolts above them.  Start on easy climbing for 15' going slightly left, then back right to a large ledge that is not easily visible from below.  This protects better and is much easier than it appears.  Follow the ramp to the chains you can see from the belay in the middle of the face.  Best to combine this the P5.  5.7.

P5.  The money pitch!  From the chains, make a delicate couple moves almost straight left to gain the finger size crack in the face.  It's sporty, but there's tons of good pro in that crack for nuts or small cams.  When the crack ends, use flakes to go slight right and up to a single bolt.  From there, head up and left (5.7) or right (5.8) to a tree, then find chains on a ledge to the right.  5.8 heady!

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 camalot. Lots of long runners to reduce rope drag helpful. Takes stoppers well. Some anchors are set up off trees, others have chains.

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