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Routes in Pentapitch Area

Dike from Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Torment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flashdance T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Ginseng T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackalope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Japanese Terraces T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lesbian Seagulls S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Littlefoot T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nubbins Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Nubbins to Nowhere T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearls Before Swine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pentapass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pentapitch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pudgy Gumbies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Sasquatch T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Steve Carruthers, Dana Houser: 1983
Page Views: 2,364 total · 18/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Aug 31, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

This climb starts at the top of pitch 1 of pentapitch(or other variation you choose). Traverse right towards sasquatch on the big blocky ledges and halfway between the big tree of pentapitch and the big tree of sasquatch is a finger crack that takes you straight up. Hit a bolt, then traverse right over to the dihedral that is just left of sasquatch. Follow this up to the huge tier atop pentapitch 2.

Gear: Standard LCC rack with 70m rope or 2 60m ropes. Rap down sasquatch.

Photos

Sweet route.
Everyone should do it.
Bolts replaced years ago by the asca. Oct 11, 2007
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Very cool climb. Finger crack to slab to lieback corner. Also, the easiest 10d I've ever climbed. Jul 6, 2011
Pete Spri
  5.10
Pete Spri  
  5.10
Fun route, suprised that it doesn't see more traffic.

Crack up to 1 bold, step right on a delicate move (crux) to a decent lip, then reach high or make an intermediate move to get some pro in. Easy from there on out.

Easier 10 for sure. Sep 8, 2011
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
  5.10b
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
  5.10b
Great route on the nose of the lower wall. Stellar climb in a stellar spot! Wandering out to the final bolt of Nubbins Direct after the layback section can set up some better visuals of the follower from a belay up top, will reduce some drag too. May 15, 2012

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