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Coalpit Buttress Rock Climbing
Routes in Coalpit Buttress
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Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Buenaventura, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coalpit Connection T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- |
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Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fist of The North Star T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Gladiator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 PG13 |
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King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lick Your Flint T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Man On the Moon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nanook of the North T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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One Time at Band Camp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precious Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sherminator, The V4 6B A5+ |
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Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Show Must Go On, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Snake Pit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Starting Point Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Elevation: | 6,486 ft | 1,977 m |
| GPS: |
40.56849, -111.73616 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 61,786 total · 250/month | |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Aug 31, 2005 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
This is the buttress in between the Triangle Wall and Pentapitch. It has lots of black roofs. It is a great area to chase shade. Although certain times of the summer the sun pokes through here and there. There are enough multipitch adventurers to last one a summer or more. Friction and cracks seem to be what most routes are made of. There are couple steep pitches for the sport climbers to have fun on too.
Getting There
After passing the pumphouse watch for the gated road on the right (here).
Park at the pullout and walk down the road or through the woods to cross the stream at a bridge. Walk down canyon until you see a trail branching off on your left just before you reach two large pine trees on the right side of the main trail.
Hike up the trail (like you're going to the Pentapitch Area).
But, at the bottom of the talus, punch it straight up; this will put you at the bottom of Stiffler's Mom.
Or, for a less steep approach, go to Pentapitch and walk east along the base.
Classic Climbing Routes at Coalpit Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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