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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress
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Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Buenaventura, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coalpit Connection T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- |
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Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lick Your Flint T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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One Time at Band Camp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precious Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Show Must Go On, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Snake Pit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Starting Point Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jame Garrett, Tyler Phillips, Franziska Garrett 2005 |
| Page Views: | 2,431 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Jun 30, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
This route is just one of the additional fun slab routes added this year to the largely previously ignored Coalpit Buttress.
Coalpit Buttress includes everything between Triangle Wall and Pentapitch area. Approach as for Stiffler's Mom or Pentapitch. Start as for PRECIOUS LOST. This is the next slab to the east of Endless Torment. Look for bolts that start after a short corner on the left side.
Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Precious Lost to a belay ledge with two Fixe ring bolts. 25m, 5.10+.
Pitch #2: Continue up Precious Lost passing two bolts and then instead of going up and right to that tree belay, persevere through a tad of easy jungle whacking to a two bolt belay to the left of a large tree and left facing corner. 5.7, then 3rd class.
Pitch #3: Climb up and left passing several bolts on the fun slab. Bearing left and reaching the cruxy "headwall" of the pitch, slap your way up past this to a another two bolt belay. 30m, 5.10+.
Pitch #4: Climb past several more bolts on easier ground to a roof. Surmount the roof protected by a bolt to another bolt and traverse again to the left to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9.
One may either rappel from here or traverse 25m left to the pitch #5 of Stifflers Mom or continue up and right to the very enjoyable upper pitches of PRECIOUS LOST.
Coalpit Buttress includes everything between Triangle Wall and Pentapitch area. Approach as for Stiffler's Mom or Pentapitch. Start as for PRECIOUS LOST. This is the next slab to the east of Endless Torment. Look for bolts that start after a short corner on the left side.
Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Precious Lost to a belay ledge with two Fixe ring bolts. 25m, 5.10+.
Pitch #2: Continue up Precious Lost passing two bolts and then instead of going up and right to that tree belay, persevere through a tad of easy jungle whacking to a two bolt belay to the left of a large tree and left facing corner. 5.7, then 3rd class.
Pitch #3: Climb up and left passing several bolts on the fun slab. Bearing left and reaching the cruxy "headwall" of the pitch, slap your way up past this to a another two bolt belay. 30m, 5.10+.
Pitch #4: Climb past several more bolts on easier ground to a roof. Surmount the roof protected by a bolt to another bolt and traverse again to the left to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9.
One may either rappel from here or traverse 25m left to the pitch #5 of Stifflers Mom or continue up and right to the very enjoyable upper pitches of PRECIOUS LOST.
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