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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tyler Phillips Luke Douglas?
Page Views: 2,476 total, 18/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 23, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The bolted line just left of the 1st pitch of Stiffler's Mom. Extremely thin friction at bolt 1. Extreme!!! Wait for a cool morning to get this one under your belt. The upper 3 bolts are a blast.

Location

5-10 minutes east from the base of Pentapitch. As you walk past Pentapitch, you will pass 3 slabs with routes (not counting Neuromancer (10 feet away from Pentapitch)). Slab 1: Endless Torment / Lesbian Seagulls, Slab 2: Precious Lost, Slab 3: Stiffler's Mom / One Time at Band Camp.

Protection

5 draws and 2 for the chains.

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Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12-
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12-
It was hot today when I tried to lead it. Definitely one of the harder slab climbs I have tried. Definitely a LOT harder than the crux pitch of Stifflers Mom. I give this solid .11+/.12-. The move between the 1st and 2nd bolt was tenuous, took me about 20 tries to figure out, and ended up relying on a single crystal edge that was definitely one of the hardest slab moves I have done. This is definitely harder than .11b, especially in warmer weather and if you stick to the bolted line and avoid the flake/chimney on the left. The rest of the moves on the line after the move between the 1st and 2nd bolt probably go at .11+. Aug 16, 2012
Lol TP Jun 21, 2007
still can't do that move. But I have been on some other 5.11 slabs lately and that thing is .11+. Just nothing there to hold onto. Hell of a lot harder than Punany AND Dangling Participle AND Neuromancer and Romance on the Rocks. I thought it was harder than Walk on Air too for what its worth.

oh - nice hangers! May 28, 2007
Maddog,
Not yet. Anytime you want to get out and get it (as long as you don't drop me :) ) let me know. I took all winter off and am ready for it. Apr 22, 2007
5555  
Nate,
Curious if you ever went back and led this route? What was your final grade? Did you send clean? 10C would make you a slab wizard if that grade still holds for you. Hell, 11B would make you my new hero.

Mark Davis Mar 27, 2007
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
I have to say One Time At Band Camp is one of the hardest slab routes I have ever tried. I have walked many other slab routes in the 10+ range and feel in no way shape or form can this be 10c. It is at least 11+. Nuff said. Tall guys have it made on this one. Aug 26, 2006
Yes it was a TR, however... I had attempted the lead earlier and when the weather is better I will go back for the redpoint. I did take into account the fact that I TR'd it and I also adjusted for the conditions. I personally feel that if you climb a route once that is not enough to get an accurate grade. So take my 5.11b with all those grains of salt. Jul 19, 2006
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11
yeah, I don't know...we did it in June, or rather tried it, after doing Stiffler's...I think it is harder than anything on Stiffler's...the 11+ seemed somewhat accurate (I want to climb it again in better conditions--it's got to be at least 5.11 solid--I'm comparing to other routes in the area)...at least for that short 8 foot section that moves past the 1st bolt...otherwise the rest of the route is cruiser and fun (either way you do it: using the flake/chimney thing or staying on the face and using the flake/chimney thing for your left hand only) this section reminds me of that route to the left of funky bolt at the city...the one that starts in the flake/chimney thing :)

but...we'll see how it ends up...there is still room for some cleaning to be done...I pulled off several small flakes and crystals...

awesome work

Jul 12, 2006
Tyler, that is true. It is a move that favors the 6 footers. I almost couldn't do it as clean as I did. My partner for the day, who is assuredly better than me, and also assuredly shorter than I, could not do it.

Nice line all the same. Jun 28, 2006
Tyler posted it on UC as an 11+, but he also asked for a consensus. I felt 5.11b was accurate. Very slimy this time of year. If I go back in September or October, I may think it is only a 5.10c or something. The upper face is cool and solid, it's just that 1st bolt. Jun 24, 2006
Didn't he post this as .11d on utahclimbers? Hard down low in July. Jun 24, 2006