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Triangle Wall Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Triangle Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Day in Scotland T WI4 M5+ Steep Snow PG13
	Broken Rhombuses T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Cocoa Puffs WI3
	Code Blue T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2+
	Less Than or Equal To T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+
	Stratosphere T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2-

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Elevation:	7,003 ft	2,135 m
GPS:	40.56724, -111.73428 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Josh Janes on Oct 5, 2006 · Updates
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The Triangle Wall, and the adjacent Geometry Wall, constitute a quiet and secluded area located high above the road. This area has historically been known as home to some ice climbing, a skimo descent, and a few wild and difficult aid climbs, but more recently it has come into its own as an excellent though sparsely documented free climbing venue. The Triangle Wall, visible through the trees from the road and looming above the main approach gully, is the impressive north-facing wall with interesting, angular roof features. The Geometry Wall is the east-facing wall that borders the gully on the right; up high it is separated from the Triangle Wall by a narrow chasm - which is home to the obscure winter climb “A Day in Scotland” (one can imagine). In midsummer the area can get a bit of sun in the middle of the day, but good shade in the morning and afternoon, along with a reliable, cool updraft, allow for comfortable climbing throughout the season.

Getting There

Park as for Pentapitch and the Coalpit Buttress at a pullout on the right side of the road 2.4 miles up canyon from the Little Cottonwood Park & Ride. Do not block the gated service road. Follow this service road briefly, cross the creek via a pedestrian bridge, and head down-canyon along the creek on the Little Cottonwood Trail for a few minutes, keeping an eye out for a pair of huge boulders immediately next to the trail. Once you pass these boulders, continue another 20-30 paces and look for a passage through the trees that leads to a steep, narrow talus-filled gully. If you reach the turnoff for Pentapitch/Coalpit you've gone too far. The correct path funnels you into a narrow gully which can be followed all the way to the walls. Note that in early season (often into May) this gully holds snow and may require crampons and tools or poles to ascend. Approach time from the car can range from 20-40 minutes.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Triangle Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

WI3 12 ● Cocoa Puffs Ice
WI4 M5+ Steep Snow PG13 4 ● A Day in Scotland Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ 5 ● Less Than or Equal To Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2- 23 ● Stratosphere Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 7 ● Broken Rhombuses Trad