Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||Josh Janes - Summer 2019|
|Page Views:||635 total · 49/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jul 2, 2020|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Technically it is on the Geometry Wall (see "Location" notes). Begin about 15' down from the start of the aid line Unknownosphere at an obtuse, right-facing corner with glue-in bolts. Climb this corner, but at the 5th bolt and just below a small roof, move hard left (do not continue straight up) to a stance below a right-facing flake system. Climb this to a small rest ledge and then move right across the wall to access a system of steep right-facing flakes which are followed upwards to the crux boulder problem. This powerful and pumpy bit of climbing is protected by three closely-spaced bolts and ends at a good stance at the base of the upper headwall. Two more bolts protect climbing up the delicate “Ghost Flake” and a final move around a roof leads to a tiny ledge at the top of the wall.
To get down: Lower from the bolted anchor straight down to a big ledge on the wall behind you (this is western aspect of the Triangle Wall). Anchor in and belay a seconding climber up from there. When the second has cleaned the route and reached the upper anchor, lower them to your location, pull the rope, and do a short rap back into the gully. Alternatively, you can clean the upper two thirds of the pitch while lowering to this same ledge, but the second will still have to clean the lower third and then swing over to you… it sounds complicated but it makes sense once you see the architecture of the walls.
Many (at least 15; 20 would be better) draws & slings.
NB: This is a long , wandering pitch; use care in managing rope drag. I recommend slings on every piece starting from just above the initial corner and continuing until reaching the first bolt of the crux. Alternatively, consider using two ropes.