Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Josh Janes - Summer 2019
Page Views: 635 total · 49/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 2, 2020
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Broken Rhombuses is a fantastic pitch of climbing. At about 45 meters in length, gently overhanging most of the way, and having multiple 5.11 sections with a wild boulder problem crux up high it's also quite a journey. Protection is often spaced, but always good (consisting of a mix of gear and bolts). Super fun and totally worth the hike up to the Triangle Wall.

Technically it is on the Geometry Wall (see "Location" notes). Begin about 15' down from the start of the aid line Unknownosphere at an obtuse, right-facing corner with glue-in bolts. Climb this corner, but at the 5th bolt and just below a small roof, move hard left (do not continue straight up) to a stance below a right-facing flake system. Climb this to a small rest ledge and then move right across the wall to access a system of steep right-facing flakes which are followed upwards to the crux boulder problem. This powerful and pumpy bit of climbing is protected by three closely-spaced bolts and ends at a good stance at the base of the upper headwall. Two more bolts protect climbing up the delicate “Ghost Flake” and a final move around a roof leads to a tiny ledge at the top of the wall.

To get down: Lower from the bolted anchor straight down to a big ledge on the wall behind you (this is western aspect of the Triangle Wall). Anchor in and belay a seconding climber up from there. When the second has cleaned the route and reached the upper anchor, lower them to your location, pull the rope, and do a short rap back into the gully. Alternatively, you can clean the upper two thirds of the pitch while lowering to this same ledge, but the second will still have to clean the lower third and then swing over to you… it sounds complicated but it makes sense once you see the architecture of the walls.

Location

The route is on the Geometry Wall - the east-facing wall that forms the right side of the Triangle Wall gully. Scramble, with the possible assistance of a fixed line, up a steep fern-filled slope/gully to a narrow chasm capped by an old log bridge. B.R. begins about 15' down from the start of the aid line Unknownosphere at an obtuse, right-facing corner with glue-in bolts.

Protection

2x 0.2 to #2 Camalot.
Many (at least 15; 20 would be better) draws & slings.
‚Äč70m rope.

NB: This is a long , wandering pitch; use care in managing rope drag. I recommend slings on every piece starting from just above the initial corner and continuing until reaching the first bolt of the crux. Alternatively, consider using two ropes.

Photos

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