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Routes in Triangle Wall

Cocoa Puffs WI3
Less Than or Equal To T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+
Stratosphere T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C1-2
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Type: Ice, 250 ft
FA: ice route: probably skiers?
Page Views: 1,194 total · 10/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 30, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Snow to ice gully for a couple of pitches. Longer ice pitch than it looks. Couple of options available. Stay in the corner all the way to the top (can be very thin in places near the top), or, part way up the last pitch, step left onto the face and climb up then around left of a rock bulge and back right to the top of the ice gully at its top (below the low angle snow gully above).

Note: route basically follows the summer time rock climbing route of the same name.

Location

Left side of the Triangle Wall. Gully is behind the Commitment Buttress. Take care with any avy concerns (very hard to escape if a slide came down). Hopefully snow conditions will be neve in the gully, and on the approach too.

Protection

Ice screws and pins for pro (additional rock gear may be prudent depending on how thick the ice is). Was a fixed piton on the left side rock wall, about 2/3 of the way up (old clog?). Belay anchors consisting of slings on blocks in the corner. Anchor at top on either side of the gully (we used the one to the right from the tree as it was easy to see that it was ok, sorta). We rappelled the route with a single 60m rope: 3 rappels.

Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
70 meter rope is ideal for pitching out and rapelling- anchors have been updated. Three rapells and then a scramble down to the base of the triangle. First rap anchor is on the slabs at the head of the gully a little to the east- it could be buried with snow in the winter- in which case sling the giant tree on the west side of the gully for the first rap. Aug 31, 2017

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