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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Snake Pit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starting Point Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: T. Phillips L. Douglas
Page Views: 2,596 total · 16/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Aug 21, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

This is the 5th pitch variation on Stifflers Mom. Start to the left of the anchor and climb straight up.

If you don't get this name rent American Pie. Named so because after putting Stifflers Mom in from the ground up we rap bolted this line.

Protection

About 9 bolts. I forget.

Location

This is the 5th pitch variation of Stifflers Mom, see
Topo

Photos

Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
5.10b
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
5.10b
Sweet!! Cool line, Bold moves up perfect granite. Oct 21, 2007
Shaft
Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
Shaft   Salt Lake City
  5.10b/c
Varied, great climbing with slab being the main theme.

Felt like at least solid 5.10 on a warm and humid September day. I counted 12 bolts. Sep 13, 2009
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
This is a really good variation to pitch 5, and it feels more direct than the "original" way. Surprisingly, it had some of the same kinds of moves as the "original" way too. Just a bit easier.. Also, that 3rd bolt is right where it needs to be. You just can't see it from the belay. Sep 15, 2009
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Back-clean the 1st bolt and clip the 3rd or 4th long (can't remember, it will be obvious).
Great moves, felt like a baby version of the regular route, the corner is a bit easier, bit shorter, bit more acute and easier to work with. Jun 19, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
Sustained and tenuous in the dihedral. I was wishing I had 1-2" more reach for some of those clips. Jul 29, 2013
KG
SLC, UT
  5.10-
KG   SLC, UT
  5.10-
This might be one of the best slab pitches I've done in little at this grade. So much fun!

I also counted 12 bolts. No need for gear on this pitch, just draws. Oct 23, 2016
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
  5.10b
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
  5.10b
good climbing but the spray bolting takes away from the quality of the route. Jun 21, 2018

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