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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jon Starr, Tyler Phillips, Luke Douglas 06'
Page Views: 2,986 total, 21/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Jun 7, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The 3rd pitch var. to Stifflers Mom, Try to refrain from climbing the nice flake on the 3rd pitch of Stifflers and shuffle out left. The bolt line is obvious.

Continue up Stifflers, or descend via, 3 single rope raps to the ground.

Protection

Draws, #1 camalot or .75 camalot, small stoppers for the top.

Location

Begin on Stifflers Mom then break off left at pitch three. See

Photos

Andrew Brodhead
SLC
  5.11b/c
Andrew Brodhead   SLC
  5.11b/c
Great pitch! May 31, 2017
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Great variation. Unfortunately, it happens to be a variation to the best pitch of Stiffler's, but, fortunately, it's a nice harder pitch with varied climbing - slab moves, balancy stuff, a lieback section, face climbing, and a thin finger crack.

I found a .75 BD and a red TCU to be handy in the middle, and micro cams up top. Aug 15, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b/c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11b/c
Stunning and unique variation. Different from many LCC routes. A worthy outing. Aug 31, 2010
Ty Gregory
Salt Lake City
 
Ty Gregory   Salt Lake City
 
This pitch is awesome, I think more people should try it because it is a tad slippery due to the ancient lichen. Awfully balancy. Jun 16, 2009