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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: George Lowe & Mark McQuarrie in 1965
Page Views: 1,143 total, 10/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Aug 31, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This seldom done route tackles the big tiger striped roof that guards the upper face and slab of the north face of the coalpit buttress. The two earliest guides have conflicting starts to gain pine tree ledge where the business of this route starts. One book has tree ledge gained from the left and the other has the cracks just right of the tree ledge. I've always thought it climbed the nice finger crack, just right of tree ledge...same as House of Cards

The aid pitch climbing past the roof, IMO is one of the very best in the canyon. The aid is varied, exposed and exciting. Pulling over the lip of the roof is one of the most exciting spots on the south side.

- P1 & 2...gains pine tree ledge.
- P3 From the far right end of the ledge, ascend a sporty narrow, right facing corner/ramp. Thin nailing follows a short overhanging corner to face cracks that lead to the lip of the roof. A short move right leads to a hanging belay just above.
- P4-6 climbs a dirty corner and flake system to a low angled area. Most, if not all climbers rap from the top of the pitch 3.


Begins on the main traverse ledge just right of where House of Cards Begins.


5 each Knife blade & lost arrows, a few angles, a hook plus a standard rack emphasizing small nuts & cams.