Avg: 1.8 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||M.R., ground-up, solo|
|Page Views:||1,032 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||stone meridian on Oct 24, 2016 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCAsaltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
P1. Slab directly up to the first bolt (visible on the lip of a rooflet) or traverse right underneath the roof to start. Pass the roof via a weakness just to the right of the bolt. Trend leftwards slightly past another bolt and a shrub in a vertical slot. Continue up the flake with bolts to your left, up into cruiser terrain. When near the shrubby ledge system, trend right to a bolted anchor near a pine tree. 6 Bolts.
P2. Mantle and side pull up to a clean short slab. Climb the slab and break left after the second bolt on positive crimpers. Mantle into an alcove with a little bush. Place gear and make exposed moves further out left around a bulge. Climb straight up easier terrain. Bolt anchor is on your right near a bush. 3 Bolts.
Descent: 2 single rope raps on bolted anchors.