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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Pit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starting Point Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: M.R., ground-up, solo
Page Views: 483 total · 23/month
Shared By: stone meridian on Oct 24, 2016 with updates from Ryan Arnold
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

Beta. A fun easier warm up route for all that is Coal Pit. Well protected, surprisingly good rock and climbing. This is the fastest/best way to reach the catwalk that cuts across the face.

P1. Slab directly up to the first bolt (visible on the lip of a rooflet) or traverse right underneath the roof to start. Pass the roof via a weakness just to the right of the bolt. Trend leftwards slightly past another bolt and a shrub in a vertical slot. Continue up the flake with bolts to your left, up into cruiser terrain. When near the shrubby ledge system, trend right to a bolted anchor near a pine tree. 6 Bolts.

P2. Mantle and side pull up to a clean short slab. Climb the slab and break left after the second bolt on positive crimpers. Mantle into an alcove with a little bush. Place gear and make exposed moves further out left around a bulge. Climb straight up easier terrain. Bolt anchor is on your right near a bush. 3 Bolts.

Location

Approach: Starts underneath House of Cards. Skirt the base of Coal Pit Buttress. Hike past Stiffler's, past the DNF, to the far eastern part of the base. Stop in the fresh talus before heading uphill through some dense brush. Look for a bolt on the edge of a overhang.

Descent: 2 single rope raps on bolted anchors.

Protection

Long Draws, Slings
2x Blue TCU - .75 Camalot.
1x #1,2 Camalot
1 Rope
No Stoppers

Photos

Shadow Ayala
Lexington, KY
 
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, KY
 
Great approach for House of Cards. Someone needs to replace the anchor slings with chain. This climb makes getting to and rapping from House of Cards a dream. Jun 3, 2017
skiandclimb  
 
A single rack of gear is fine. Somewhat non-memorable climbing up pretty mossy/dirty/loose rock. Could use some cleaning and definitely chains should be added at anchors! I removed a coffee table size block at belay 1 so no one should die now... Jul 6, 2018

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