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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas summer 08'
Page Views: 240 total, 2/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Sep 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. Climb path of least resistance to a left facing dihedral (this is about 30 ft. up). There is a hidden fixed ring pin before stepping up in the dihedral. Small cams will bring you to a bolt (use long sling), from the bolt traverse left on fun features; at the end of the traverse is a fixed angle (use long sling). From here launch straight up using big holds to the crux slab. Place some gear, clip the bolt (which will keep you off the foot ledge) and choose, do I throw right or left? Ends at a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9+ 110ft. Watch for rope drag.

P2. Climb up and trend right to a fixed pin then into another left facing dihedral. From the top of the dihedral is another fixed pin. Keep cruising straight up passing the nub of a pine tree and staying in the faux dihedral (the climbing is about 5.6-ish) placing gear when you can. Aim for a water streaked slab with a bolt. Make a cool slab move using an undercling and foot paste. Climb up into the left facing dihedral using cracks and pull up and over the roof to a good stance (the Seeing Red ledge) and a 2 bolt belay. 5.9+ 110ft.

P3. Ramble up and right (slight bushwhack) .Pull up onto the slab traversing left towards the chimney. Feel the air in your ass as you establish yourself in the chimney. Old school climbing brings you to a sloped ledge and a fixed pin and a spindly pine tree; optional gear for belay (recommended). 5.8+ 50ft.

P4. From the sloped ledge climb straight above the fixed belay pin into a left facing dihedral. Small cams help getting established here. From the top of the dihedral clip a fixed pin and climb up into the right to left traversing crack. A bulge thrown in the crack traverse makes you think. After the bulge, traverse left for another 15 or so feet, look up and spot the fixed pin on a clean slab. Ends a 2 bolt anchor. (Can run 3 and 4 together with lots of slings, expect drag however.) 5.9+ 90 ft.

Optional pitch 4: From the sloped belay ledge on P3 traverse around right to the low angle right to left traversing crack. Climb this skipping the steep part of P4. 5.9

P5. Climb up and right to a large ledge. There is a low angle hand crack running straight up this, at the top of the crack is a good ledge and belay/single rope rap station. This was put in to minimize rock fall from the traversing pitch onto the belayer, to help w/ communication and also serves as a short rap station. 5.6 40 feet

P6. Find pitons (numerous) and climb up and around the left side of the roof. From the stance/shelf system ramble straight up and left, watch out for pitons. Keep an eye out for a 2 bolt anchor by a big bush. 5.8 165 ft. (can run 5 and 6 together). The What the F*%K pitch

P7. From anchor climb up and right over some big blocks. Cool features on the slab will help you gain a low angle right facing dihedral, use double long slings here or move your belay closer to the start. Cruise up this to more low angle dihedrals staying to the right; be careful around the big block. Locate a fixed ring pin on a highly featured slab, above this is a bolt. From bolt make a right shuffle past the big pine tree (which really ends the good climbing) to a pine needle trough. Climb up for another 30+ feet (passing 2 pitons) over loose terrain to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8 200+ ft.


Location

Walk up the Triangle Gully (recommended) or along the Coalpit Buttress. Where the Coalpit wraps around into the Triangle wall gully there is a flat spot under a roof with some ferns growing. The start is to the right of this roof

Protection

#0 - #4 Metoilus, #.5 to # 4 Camalot. QD's, lot's of shoulder slings very helpful. Helmet.

70m rope mandatory for rapping or 2 65 meter ropes which will minimize the raps by 2 or 3.

If rapping with a 70m from the top one must keep an eye out for the pine tree on the 1st rap over to the right. Then after 2 more raps you have to make a diagonal-ing rap back over the What the F%*K pitch. Then make the short annoying rap back to the top of the 4th. From here it's straight forward.

3 lead bolts and 20 pitons

Photos

AKM1878
 
AKM1878  
 
The climbing is OK, very dirty (which would clean up with more climbs)

most of the pitches have one or two moves at the grade and then are pretty easy for the rest of the pitch.

Finding the start was a bit hard. Look closely at the color photo. There are a couple other routes to the left that have some bolts going through a roof.

The last pitch description says a lot about keeping right... The line on the map is more useful. Climb the obvious slab to the LEFT of the anchor and keep working LEFT until you hit the bolt. Then work back right to the chains which are on a nice ledge above a small pine tree right in the middle of the face.

All but one anchor is bolted.

Decent: We rapped the route with 2 60m ropes. We rapped pitch 7, pitch 6, pitches 3-5, pitch 2, and pitch 1.
Sep 10, 2012