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Refugees From Reality
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 40
votes
Routes in Coal Pit Buttress
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Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Buenaventura, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coalpit Connection T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- |
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Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Lick Your Flint T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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One Time at Band Camp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precious Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Show Must Go On, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Snake Pit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Starting Point Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | T. Phillips, L. Douglas, Summer '05 |
| Page Views: | 4,995 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Jun 11, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse.
Details
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA saltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Description
Hike uphill from Stifflers Mom (east) to the black roofs at the top of the "hill". The route starts to the left of the black roof.
P1. Start up a short crack on a slab to the roof. A lone grey bolt marks the start. After clipping this start up the STEEP TCU crack, and finger traverse left until it is possible to climb up to the belay. Short 40'. 5.10/ 5.10+.
P2. Friction up past belay clipping two bolts along the way to the black roof. Plug in a handsized cam and step up to the roof, clip two bolts and continue up passing a bolt to a funky highstep. After high step hand traverse clipping bolts to belay. 5.12a
P3. Climb left clipping a bolt and keep going left in undercling, climb up passing 3 bolts to a roof. Plug in some cams make a few fun moves to the lip, clip bolts and do some harder slab moves to belay. 5.10+
P1. Start up a short crack on a slab to the roof. A lone grey bolt marks the start. After clipping this start up the STEEP TCU crack, and finger traverse left until it is possible to climb up to the belay. Short 40'. 5.10/ 5.10+.
P2. Friction up past belay clipping two bolts along the way to the black roof. Plug in a handsized cam and step up to the roof, clip two bolts and continue up passing a bolt to a funky highstep. After high step hand traverse clipping bolts to belay. 5.12a
P3. Climb left clipping a bolt and keep going left in undercling, climb up passing 3 bolts to a roof. Plug in some cams make a few fun moves to the lip, clip bolts and do some harder slab moves to belay. 5.10+
Photos
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