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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 420 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: T. Phillips, L. Douglas, Summer '05
Page Views: 3,014 total, 20/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Jun 11, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Hike uphill from Stifflers Mom (east) to the black roofs at the top of the "hill". The route starts to the left of the black roof.

P1. Start up a short crack on a slab to the roof. A lone grey bolt marks the start. After clipping this start up the STEEP TCU crack, and finger traverse left until it is possible to climb up to the belay. Short 40'. 5.10/ 5.10+.

P2. Friction up past belay clipping two bolts along the way to the black roof. Plug in a handsized cam and step up to the roof, clip two bolts and continue up passing a bolt to a funky highstep. After high step hand traverse clipping bolts to belay. 5.12a

P3. Climb left clipping a bolt and keep going left in undercling, climb up passing 3 bolts to a roof. Plug in some cams make a few fun moves to the lip, clip bolts and do some harder slab moves to belay. 5.10+

Protection

A 70 meter rope will put you on dirt in 2 raps from the top. rack: doubles on TCUs and a handsized cam, lots of long runners.

Photos

Shadow Ayala
Lexington, Kentucky
 
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, Kentucky
 
Great route! From the comments, I was expecting the first pitch to be a dud. Far from it. Very cool tips mini roof crack that rolls over to an easy mantle. Super fun and a great introduction for pitches to come. The crux pitch is also super fun in the slab AND steep department. Hidden holds make for a challenging onsight. The last pitch is a nice capper since the rock on the entire route is very high quality. Black granite!!! My favorite kind. One of my favorites in the canyon so far. Jun 13, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
A great accessible route for those looking to get on something above their head, but don't want to be super committed. We got up this thing at about a 5.10+ C1 rating over the 5.12 section. Really really fun route! Jul 18, 2012
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Good climb. The first pitch is lame, but necessary. The second pitch is good STEEP fun; a finger-size cam works well after the bolt above the big roof and before the 'funky highstep.' The third pitch offers some fine slabbing; again, a finger size cam helps protect the slight runout between the first and second bolt (easy ground). Aug 17, 2011
Nubbins80
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
Nubbins80   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12a
Great climb! I felt like my back was going to crack in half making the first move on the ledge of the black roof. Aug 11, 2008
tenesmus  
 
I had the "set" for trying to onsite it but...

This is a really cool route with great protection. You gotta be able to climb a little steepness and a little slab and more steepness, then more slab. It brings together the spectrum of LCC skills and goes really fast too.

The second pitch is more fun than the 5th of Stifflers. You need a handsized cam to get up into that roof so don't leave it with the second. Some may like an extra couple of bigger finger sized pieces in addition to those other two bolts but I thought it was fine without.

thanks for the printable topo - and the work to put it up there. Was this one done ground up too? May 28, 2007