Type: Trad, 420 ft (127 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: T. Phillips, L. Douglas, Summer '05
Page Views: 4,538 total · 23/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Jun 11, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

Hike uphill from Stifflers Mom (east) to the black roofs at the top of the "hill". The route starts to the left of the black roof.

P1. Start up a short crack on a slab to the roof. A lone grey bolt marks the start. After clipping this start up the STEEP TCU crack, and finger traverse left until it is possible to climb up to the belay. Short 40'. 5.10/ 5.10+.

P2. Friction up past belay clipping two bolts along the way to the black roof. Plug in a handsized cam and step up to the roof, clip two bolts and continue up passing a bolt to a funky highstep. After high step hand traverse clipping bolts to belay. 5.12a

P3. Climb left clipping a bolt and keep going left in undercling, climb up passing 3 bolts to a roof. Plug in some cams make a few fun moves to the lip, clip bolts and do some harder slab moves to belay. 5.10+

Protection

A 70 meter rope will put you on dirt in 2 raps from the top. rack: doubles on TCUs and a handsized cam, lots of long runners.

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