Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: FKA: James Garrett and Phil Fell
Page Views: 1,605 total, 11/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 31, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

CoalPit Buttress, Coalpit Connection, II, 5.10b, 4 pitches

Approach: Same as first two pitches of Precious Lost. approach as for this climb.

Pitch #1: Climb bolted slab of Precious Lost starting in the corner. 5.10
Pitch #2: small and ez roof move to "the jungle moves"...rather than go left up Sumatra, belay at the tree (now one fixed nut and piton). 5.7.
Pitch #3: Move right around a tree and corner arete to a very obscure "open book" corner which is guarded by a tree. A splitter finger crack ascends the left page of the book. The crack widens and go to the left belay ledge. 5.9.
Pitch #4: Climb the left facing corner crack out left and up, then eventually reaching an exit to the right, which is about 30 feet above the top pitch of Pentapitch. 5.9.

Descend: rap Pentapitch and walk back to the base.

Protection

Set of Camalots and nuts. The protection is excellent.

Photos

zoso
 
zoso  
 
You can get to pitches 3 and 4 easily from the large ledge on Pentapitch and they are both good. P4 is the last pitch of Japenese Terraces. P3 needs more traffic; all that cleaning James did is starting to fade; good fun regardless.
5.8+ if you only do the last 2 pitches. Sep 20, 2017
pitch four is the only pitch that i have done on this route so far. it's super fun. You can access it via pitch one- pentapitch, pitch two- saquatch, (then scamble up and left) pitch three- the off width to the left of pentapitch, and pitch four the last pitch of coalpit. for the last pitch I believe that i placed (all cams)a 2", a .3, a .5, a .1, and another .3 just as you come out of the crack. you can cut hard over and down to the top of the highest chains on pentapitch or you can continue another 30 meters or so to the second tree with webbing on it and rap down north northwest to the top of the pentapitch chains. Jun 17, 2014
And one more thing, if someone were to bring a small saw and cut out the gnarly, rotting, dead tree "guarding" the beginning of the finger crack, it would improve this line greatly! In which case DON'T belay right below the crack! Sep 14, 2011
Regardless of who did this first, or when it was originally done, there are some cool sections on this line. My suggestions would be to A) Consider approaching via Endless Torment rather than the first 2 pitches of Precious Lost (which are not memorable). Either way, you have some bush whacking. And B) set up your belay directly below the finger crack rather than at the "nut and pin" anchor. That way, you don't have to worry about the rope running over the sharp arete. Pitches 3 and 4 really are quite good, especially the left facing corner on pitch 4. Sep 14, 2011
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
Hey Coward

Quit dissing Jimmy G.He was probably putting up routes when you were in diapers.Trust me, he's not reporting the FA for glory's sake, ya wanker.He's merely saying, hey, check out this crack I cleaned for all you lazy fucks - it's not bad!Plus, you don't have proof that it's ever been climbed before, so STFU.

All I have to say is, Thanks, Jimmy!How 'bout we finally quit talking ';bout it at work and get out for a day this fall (once my burn's healed, that is). Sep 15, 2005
I agree with Phil. Sorry to make claims of glory which may be unfounded...I always thought Pudgy gumbies was to the left on the steeper stuff...in fact, there was a fixed piece there. If the dirty crack had been climbed befre, it wa never recorded and I have never heard of a name for it....what might be a recommend for future recording of this route would to note it as "first recorded ascent". And the name, well "Unknown" has never been on my list of cool route names. But maybe this post will spark other closet readers out there who wish to reveal when it was climbed and what they called it? Fun route at any rate. Sep 12, 2005
You all make trolling so easy.... Sep 10, 2005
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
AC, did you even read my post??? Sep 10, 2005
Ok so if he said it had been climbed before, why claim an FA? peace. Sep 10, 2005
I agree. Lots of routes got climbed around here years ago and never reported, then they fade into obscurity. Back when people didn't want to place bolts, they searched for the cracks, and were skilled at leading them clean....then, if it wasn't super classic, probably didn't see much action, and became overgrown and the route was "lost to the ages". A friend and I climbed the big east facing dihedral on the Pawn years ago, but never told anyone, or POSTED it....if someone else goes up there, maybe they will have a same adventure(if you do, take a hammer and some pins!!). I hope so..cause it was wild! Didn't seem like it had ever been climbed, but we were very reluctant to call it a new route. Point is...people have been climbing in this canyon for 40 years.....bound to be some repeats called FA's. Oh well, climb clean, climb bold, have fun. Sep 8, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
What exactly do you want Phil Fell and James Garrett to do? Phil already said that maybe it was climbed before, but it didn't appear so. If you climbed it before them, cool. great. neat. who cares? Let's all keep climbing it, and it will stay clean, or let's abandon it for another ten years so that two more people can head up there and have a great fun adventure. Either way, things are good. Sep 8, 2005
Nut tool or not if we are talking about the hand crack to the right of Pudgy Gumbies, the one with the big dead tree hanging on by a few threads. It has been climbed before. Sep 8, 2005
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
When James and I did this climb we are sure the upper pitches have been climbed before, but the finger/hand crack leading to them seemed to have seen no previous action. The crack was packed full of dirt and mud. James had to take out his nut tool and scrape out dirt for each jam and gear placement. Maybe it was climbed before, it sure didn't appear so. Sep 7, 2005
I don't think you were the first to climb this. I know I climbed the hand crack to the right ( the one w/ the dead tree hanging out of it) of Pudgy Gumbies numerous times to pre-place gear on Pudgy ( I am a wimp). And I am sure the upper pitches have been climbed too. Sorry no disrespect, I think your facts might be a bit muddled. Sep 7, 2005