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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: T. Phillips, L. Douglas, Summer 05'
Page Views: 2,052 total, 13/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start from the same area as Stifflers Mom.

P1. Start in broken dihedral climb up clipping fixed pin to a mini roof. Clip bolts along the edge for some truley exicting moves. The pitch was meant to stay on the arete after the first two bolts. 5.10+

P2. Climb up from belay through broken sections to a short slab with 1 bolt to the belay. 5.7+

P3. From belay climb up and right clipping fixed pin to killer handcrack that passes the roof on the right side. After pulling around the roof clip bolt and friction along the lip of the roof to another bolt. Climb straight up to belay. 5.10

P4. From belay follow obvious bolt line along arete to anchor. 5.8

It is possible to continue onto Stifflers Mom 5th pitch or the 5th pitch of the Precious Lost for a longer journey. which you need a 70m for.

the route was named in honor of the MAN Snoop Dogg.

It was one of the most exciting ground up adventures I've had in LCC.

Protection

Rack: QD's a standard rack up to #2 camalot (two #2's are nice). A 60m rope will let you rap route with 1 rope.

Photos

zoso
  5.10
zoso  
  5.10
"Razor sharp" is a pretty good exageration.

Did this again today and ya, it was a tad dirty here and there, but certainly not chossy. Adds to the adventure imo. Jun 5, 2012
Daniel Winder
  5.10-
Daniel Winder  
  5.10-
The first pitch traverses left more than is indicated in the topo. A fall would likely drop you over the edge of a razor sharp arete. Spooky, maybe consider double ropes. The climbing is slightly contrived but the third pitch roof is great. At the top of the route make an easy left traverse to the base of the money pitch on Stifflers.

Edit: Ok, "razor sharp" is a bit dramatic, but it's still sharp enough to wreak havoc on the cord, IMO Jun 5, 2012
mmm. . . choss Jul 21, 2011
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Hands-down the worst route on the buttress. Choss galore. Jul 7, 2011
zoso
  5.10
zoso  
  5.10
3rd pitch seemed less than 5.10 to me and I'm not very svelte.

Great route, thanks. Sep 14, 2008
tenesmus  
 
I thought that arete was cool, the hand crack traverse was cool, and the last 5.8 pitch would be a really great lead for a 5.8 or 9 slab climber - it was really enjoyable. May 28, 2007
Furguson
  5.10a
Furguson  
  5.10a
Contrived link-up of dirt ledges via moss covered exfoliating slab with 15 ft of good crack climbing on the third pitch. May clean up sometime, but not worth 2 starsÂ… Aug 10, 2006
Holy Shnikeys Batman! What a route! Tried not to fall over all the lips of roofs/edges. Super fun, bring 2 #2 camalots for the 3rd. Jun 4, 2006