Type: Trad, 310 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: T. Phillips, L. Douglas, B. Grey
Page Views: 1,689 total · 10/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details


This is a variation to Nanooks of the North or Refugees From Reality, which ever way you approach it. From Refugees climb up and left to large dirt shelf. From Nanooks walk to the right before the 5.10 pitches on the same dirt shelf. There is a bolted belay on the shelf. From bolted belay walk around the corner ( east) and start up the slab angling toward the corner/roof.

P1. Start on slab angling left to bolt, clip bolt, crank mini roof and move right onto the slab towards the left facing steep corner. Climb up the steep corner protecting it w/ TCU's to the stance above the tree. Reach up and find hard to see bolt. Climb straight up passing one more bolt to a fun finish. Make your way to anchor. 5.10

P2. From anchor crank hard start to get established on the slab. Follow seam/corner to the bolt. Move up and right pulling the steep section to get onto another slab. Climb up ino the corner, clip the bolt crank the move. Enjoy super fun dihedral climbing to anchor. 5.9+. Long 118'

Established in a funky half ass fashion of 1/2 ground up 1/2 not.


Rack: QDs and a Standard rack with doubles on TCUs is nice. Bring a 70M rope. The rap from the top of the last pitch eats up the whole rope BE CAREFUL!! It is possible to rap from the mank on nanooks or from the dirt shelf bolted belay make a short rap (west) to Refugees top anchor.


Fun route that doesn't deserve a bomb. Its probably at LEAST one star. The second pitch is way cool, and the top has great views. Jun 4, 2006
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
Sounds like "The Jacket", that ring a bell? Nov 9, 2008
80 meter rope needed or 2 ropes for first rap Sep 30, 2015
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
Our single 70m worked for the decent...just. Some ropes may not reach. Rapped in two raps from the top to dirt ledge then two full length raps down Refugees starting at the modern dirt ledge anchor west of Organized's start. Climbing with two ropes would probably be best, particularly if climbing Snake Pit as the approach as the third pitch of that has massive rope drag potential. Jun 17, 2018