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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 310 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: T. Phillips, L. Douglas, B. Grey
Page Views: 1,606 total, 10/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a variation to Nanooks of the North or Refugees From Reality, which ever way you approach it. From Refugees climb up and left to large dirt shelf. From Nanooks walk to the right before the 5.10 pitches on the same dirt shelf. There is a bolted belay on the shelf. From bolted belay walk around the corner ( east) and start up the slab angling toward the corner/roof.

P1. Start on slab angling left to bolt, clip bolt, crank mini roof and move right onto the slab towards the left facing steep corner. Climb up the steep corner protecting it w/ TCU's to the stance above the tree. Reach up and find hard to see bolt. Climb straight up passing one more bolt to a fun finish. Make your way to anchor. 5.10

P2. From anchor crank hard start to get established on the slab. Follow seam/corner to the bolt. Move up and right pulling the steep section to get onto another slab. Climb up ino the corner, clip the bolt crank the move. Enjoy super fun dihedral climbing to anchor. 5.9+. Long 118'



Established in a funky half ass fashion of 1/2 ground up 1/2 not.

Protection

Rack: QDs and a Standard rack with doubles on TCUs is nice. Bring a 70M rope. The rap from the top of the last pitch eats up the whole rope BE CAREFUL!! It is possible to rap from the mank on nanooks or from the dirt shelf bolted belay make a short rap (west) to Refugees top anchor.

Photos

JBONE
 
JBONE  
 
80 meter rope needed or 2 ropes for first rap Sep 30, 2015
BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
Sounds like "The Jacket", that ring a bell? Nov 9, 2008
Fun route that doesn't deserve a bomb. Its probably at LEAST one star. The second pitch is way cool, and the top has great views. Jun 4, 2006