Avg: 2.3 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||T.Phillips, L. Douglas 2005|
|Page Views:||772 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tyler Phillips on Dec 31, 2004 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCAsaltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Crank a bouldery move off the start and keep your foot work together for the rest of the pitch. bring a #3 camalot for near the top. After cranking up and onto the 4th pitch slab of Doggystyle continue up to the chains OR clip the first bolt of the pitch and downclimb to the anchors of the 3rd pitch. Super fun shizz if you ask me.