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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Snake Pit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Starting Point Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: T.Phillips, L. Douglas 2005
Page Views: 167 total · 1/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Dec 31, 2004 with updates from johnny utah
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

This is the 3rd pitch variation on Doggystyle. It goes through the yellow blocky roofs.

Crank a bouldery move off the start and keep your foot work together for the rest of the pitch. bring a #3 camalot for near the top. After cranking up and onto the 4th pitch slab of Doggystyle continue up to the chains OR clip the first bolt of the pitch and downclimb to the anchors of the 3rd pitch. Super fun shizz if you ask me.

Protection

Qds and a #3 camalot

Location

From bolted 3rd pitch belay, move belay up and left to the other side of the pine tree. There are some nice handsized cams for a belay. See
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Yea, this is a cool variation pitch. Definitely harder than I can climb and 3 star! Oct 7, 2006
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11-
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11-
Fun and worthy pitch. Makes climbing Doggy style worth it to get up here for this pitch. A burly balancy start leads to many fun lay offs and thin moves with plenty of rests. Hope it gets a lot more traffic to clean it up. Bring a few cams for the very end - 1/2 to 1 inch will fit. Sep 5, 2012
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
  5.10+
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
  5.10+
Be very careful with the jug holds at the top of the climb, the whole block is detached and flexes with some weight. Really a great climb with terrific movement that will only get better with traffic. Jun 19, 2018

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