Type: Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tyler Phillips, Robbie Colbert, Luke Douglas 2004
Page Views: 31,268 total · 157/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Jun 30, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Description

This route was put up in traditional style, from the ground up. It lies about 300 yards east of Pentapitch and about 75 yards to the west of Nanooks of the North. The start has 2 options.

P1: Climb grassy crack to fixed pin in flake, climb up the flake into left facing dihedral passing a small pine, from top of the dihedral traverse left to stance and belay. 5.8-

Alternate 1st pitch: climb up steep slab sticking to whatever you can past 2 bolts, from there climb THE beautiful arete to chains: 3 bolts, 5 in total on pitch. (Variation is called 'One Time At Band Camp' 5.11+)

P2: Climb up from belay using friction passing one bolt. From here a little dirt scrambling will bring you to some low angle climbing to a finger crack that leads to a pine tree. More dihedral climbing that has lots of face holds brings you to a semi-hanging belay w/ 2 bolts. 5.7

P3: The juice. Climb up awesome flakes going up over a roof to a great stance. Quality cracks up the face lead to a corner. From the top of the corner traverse out left to the arete passing 2 bolts. A wild step over brings up around the corner to a small stopper crack, crank one or two more moves to a great ledge and belay. 5.8+

P4: From the belay climb up using cracks. Keep cruising low angle cracks to a slightly harder finish to the big ledge and belay behind small trees on a 2 bolt anchor. 5.7

P5: From anchor climb left facing dihedral and keep cruising right over the slab passing one bolt. From the end of the traverse climb a cool flake to more bolts. Pinch, scum, balance your way up this shallow corner to a sequential exit. A fun slab traverse brings you to a really cool ledge w/ a big pine tree (American Pie Ledge) 5.10+

P6: From anchor look up and to the left you'll see a bolt. Climb up this and grope for the best crimp over the lip, keep searching for the good hold as you move up and get established in the left facing corner. Make a hard move getting established in the corner and enjoy the fun cracks that follow. At the top of the crack is a tightly bolted slab leading to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11a

P7: Climb up into the undercling and traverse left. Near the end of the traverse launch straight up into the dihedral using fun features. At the top of the dihedral trend to the right passing 2 bolts to a mantle and the belay. 5.9

If you decide to climb past the 7th pitch ( which ends the 3 star rating) bring a 70m rope or 2 50m ropes for the raps. From the 7th pitch belay look up and note the dead pine tree about 110' up, this will be where your rap station is to re-gain the Stifflers Mom raps. The climbing on the upper half is full on adventure with some quality cracks near the "summit". Have fun.

Protection

Set of cams to 3" and small set of nuts. 13 quickdraws, and long slings helpful. Kevlar vest may be needed

Photos