Avg: 3.3 from 292 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 12 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Tyler Phillips, Robbie Colbert, Luke Douglas 2004|
|Page Views:||32,798 total · 156/month|
|Shared By:||Tyler Phillips on Jun 30, 2004 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCAsaltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
P1: Climb grassy crack to fixed pin in flake, climb up the flake into left facing dihedral passing a small pine, from top of the dihedral traverse left to stance and belay. 5.8-
Alternate 1st pitch: climb up steep slab sticking to whatever you can past 2 bolts, from there climb THE beautiful arete to chains: 3 bolts, 5 in total on pitch. (Variation is called 'One Time At Band Camp' 5.11+)
P2: Climb up from belay using friction passing one bolt. From here a little dirt scrambling will bring you to some low angle climbing to a finger crack that leads to a pine tree. More dihedral climbing that has lots of face holds brings you to a semi-hanging belay w/ 2 bolts. 5.7
P3: The juice. Climb up awesome flakes going up over a roof to a great stance. Quality cracks up the face lead to a corner. From the top of the corner traverse out left to the arete passing 2 bolts. A wild step over brings up around the corner to a small stopper crack, crank one or two more moves to a great ledge and belay. 5.8+
P4: From the belay climb up using cracks. Keep cruising low angle cracks to a slightly harder finish to the big ledge and belay behind small trees on a 2 bolt anchor. 5.7
P5: From anchor climb left facing dihedral and keep cruising right over the slab passing one bolt. From the end of the traverse climb a cool flake to more bolts. Pinch, scum, balance your way up this shallow corner to a sequential exit. A fun slab traverse brings you to a really cool ledge w/ a big pine tree (American Pie Ledge) 5.10+
P6: From anchor look up and to the left you'll see a bolt. Climb up this and grope for the best crimp over the lip, keep searching for the good hold as you move up and get established in the left facing corner. Make a hard move getting established in the corner and enjoy the fun cracks that follow. At the top of the crack is a tightly bolted slab leading to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11a
P7: Climb up into the undercling and traverse left. Near the end of the traverse launch straight up into the dihedral using fun features. At the top of the dihedral trend to the right passing 2 bolts to a mantle and the belay. 5.9
If you decide to climb past the 7th pitch ( which ends the 3 star rating) bring a 70m rope or 2 50m ropes for the raps. From the 7th pitch belay look up and note the dead pine tree about 110' up, this will be where your rap station is to re-gain the Stifflers Mom raps. The climbing on the upper half is full on adventure with some quality cracks near the "summit". Have fun.