Type: Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tyler Phillips and Luke Douglas
Page Views: 4,940 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Dec 31, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details


This is another classic put up by the Stiffler's Mom duo....Tyler and Luke. Again, they put a lot of time into route preparation and cleaning and drilling quality anchors, and done on the lead! Kudos!

Approach: As for Pentapitch and then go left to Coalpit Buttress. Same start as Sumatra. In fact, these first pitches of Sumatra are actually the same as Precious Lost! This is about 100 feet to the left or east of Endless Torment. I guarantee you'll enjoy this route...I personally have to try something else this summer!

Pitch #1: Up the left facing corner for 10 feet, out onto the slab and then belay at 2 bolts on a ledge. Well protected. 5.10b(?), 20m.

Pitch #2: Continue up and right passing some jungle gymnastics to a tree anchor. 5.7, 25m.

Pitch #3: Move left and step up onto a ramp and climb the ever widening crack. For this pitch if you struggle on fist and wider slab cracks, take additional bigger cams if desired. Belay at a big ledge from blocks. 5.7-8?, 40m.

Pitch#4: Traverse down the ledge and to the left (east) to yet another left trending ramp. Pass a piton to a very fun finger crack that you wish would go on forever, pass some bolts to a cramped belay ledge by a shady tree. 5.9, 35m.

Pitch #5: From here, you'll see the last moves of Sumatra out left. Traverse out a leftward crack towards that last bolt on Sumatra without clipping it, and then go up and right after clipping a fixed angle piton. Pass through a blocky roof to more moves to the left protecting with gear mostly to another roof. this I thought to be the technical trad crux, especially if you don't carry enough Jr. Camalot size cams! Surmount the roof laybacking your way up and right to easier ground and a huge tree with slings for the belay. 5.10a, 30m.

Pitch #6: Over the roof at the start to a wonderful and clean slab passing several bolts. Trend left (as always!) to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 30m.

Pitch #7: Kind of perplexing! Pass a bolt, then go the line of least resistance through a roof on the left. We went to the right and it was unprotected and wild!!!! Once above the roof, go right to two bolt hanging belay where the only good rock for a stance existed (apparently). 5.8, choss, wavering 20m.

Descent: Rappel straight down and eventually join the Stiffler's raps. I vote and agree with Tyler that a nice rap line should be installed in the future to enable really straight forward descent here.


QDs and good assortment of cams and nuts to #4 Camalot.