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Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

Angering The Angered T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Buenaventura , The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coalpit Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Direct North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2-
DoggyStyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
House of Cards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
King Cobra Corner T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Misunderstood T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Time at Band Camp S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Organization for the Organized T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Precious Lost T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Refugees From Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shizznit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stiffler's Mom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stifflers Stiffy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stuck a Flute in My S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sumatra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Before June 2007
Page Views: 171 total · 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. Details

Route Description

Start:The right/west edge of a big wide slab.

Pitch 1: Climb up the weaknesses to the first bolt. Don't make it harder than 5.4. Clip bolt 1 and make a 5.7 friction move. Clip a long runner into the chains above and continue up to the roof. Move through the notch that takes a good cam. A large cam protects the precarious move up to a bolt. Diagonal left toward the crack in the dihedral and protect before pulling up over left and onto another slab. A few more friction moves. Belay at a 2-bolt/ring station.
Pitch 2: Diagonal left 30' over an easy bulge of rock to bolt 1. Climb straight up a slab with small intermittent cracks. Place cams when you can and look for bolts in a straight line to the ledge. Most folks will probably want to end here. There is a 2-bolt/ring station 20' back right or you can continue straight up to a natural belay at the base of the wall.
Pitch 3: Scramble 100' west along the ledge system. Belay at a 2-blade/chain station.

Protection

I recommend bringing 8 cams (0.9"-2"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24"). The route is a bit runout in sections, but the hardest sections have protection close by.

History

Bolted & cleaned June 2006-May 2007 with the help of Nathan Fisher, Dana Patterson (pitch 1) & Glen Kaplan (pitch 2).

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Tea
Tea  
The single bolt on the first pitch, seemed strangly placed. Dec 26, 2007
Tea
Tea  
Thanks Craig...I must have missed something then. I was racing the sunset...so probably I was rushing. Dec 27, 2007
I'll make sure to bring exactly 32 free carabiners for this route. Aug 11, 2008

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