Avg: 2.8 from 37 votes
|Type:||Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 7 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Clay Watson & Brian Smoot, July 2008|
|Page Views:||6,358 total · 40/month|
|Shared By:||bsmoot on Aug 10, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCAsaltlakeclimbers.org has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
Sadly, recent rockfall has changed the Tree Route, which we followed for 35'. Most of the tree was knocked off when a 15' x 35' section of rock slid off. Since the tree is only 10' tall now, the additional climbing to pass this section is now 5.11. Higher above the tree, the climbing is now easier and safer.
P1 - (begins at traverse ledge above direct start) Climb a clean arete to where you can traverse left and up to a belay.
P2 - Climb a short roof to a finger hidden crack. Follow this up to a great ledge with a broken pine tree.
P3 - Climb tree and either free or aid past fixed gear (5.9 A0 or 5.11) to some stacked blocks. Above here is a section of new rock that is protected by some bolts. Originally, this pitch made an improbable, heads-up traverse right along a prominent spike of rock. Belay 30' below the big roof above.
P4 - Take care climbing past the flake above. Clip a pin on the right, Climb over the roofs and slab above. There are 2 sets of anchors here, either one will work for the belay, but make sure and use the lower one for the descent.
P5 - 7 Ascend the excellent slab above for 3 pitches.
UPDATE: The Guillotine is now gone!
Descent You can now rap the route with just one 70m rope. The first rap is short as you must go to the top of pitch 6, the 2nd rap goes to a pine tree on the west. From here you can rap anchor to anchor the rest of the way.
Gregg Kirchhoff, Jonathan Smoot & Dallen Ward also helped out.