Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a little Alpine crag with great rock in a super nice setting. It faces west and goes in the sun around 1pm. It is covered with a little lichen and has some grass in the cracks. All but three routes (they needed some biggish trundling) were done on sight and we cleaned as much as we could. Just remember its Alpine, gives you something to do in the summer and gets you away from the crowds.

Some of these routes may have been done in the past as we found a peg in the big main corner and also a peg right of Cavas de Weinert. So these are the first recorded ascents. If you did any of these routes in the past and would like the glory, I would be happy to change route names, FA names etc.
The star ratings are based on this crag only.
All the routes were okay, with some better than others.

Bring extra slings in case you need to replace or backup anchors. Worth carrying a nut tool on the lead for cleaning.

Getting There

Drive up Little Cottonwood Canyon to the Red/White Pine parking area. Hike the Red Pine trail until it levels out about 5 mins from the lake. Turn left (east) off the trail for another 5 mins to the base of the talus right below the crag.
About 2 hrs hike from the road.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Pine Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Azal Tinto
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Vino Santo
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Vina Ardanza
Trad, Alpine
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Chateau Lafitte
Trad, Alpine
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
La Rioja Alta
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Azal Tinto
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Vino Santo
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Vina Ardanza
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
Chateau Lafitte
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
La Rioja Alta
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Red Pine Crag »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Yeah, Andy! It's great to see you and Gene finally got back up there... These lines look RAD! Jul 26, 2011
Looks really sweet! Nice work guys. Jul 27, 2011
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Great looking area. Summer retreat Aug 15, 2011
Definitely bring slings and bail biners/rap rings. We found a few slings/biners in random places that had been blown off. Come prepared. Beautiful area - can't wait to get up there again. Jun 18, 2012
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
A huge thank you to the developers of this nice alpine crag.

Expect the following:

- A long, but very easy approach.
- Nicely featured rock with cracks, jugs, edges. Reminiscent of LPC granite.
- Thoughtful, steep, and well protected climbing. This is not your typical little cottonwood slab.
- Lichen, moss, and some choss, although in general the rock is very solid.
- Lots of sun. We went up on a sunny hot summer day and were baking in the sun all afternoon.
- Missing fixed anchors. Bring extra webbing.
- Beautiful views of the Pfeifferhorn, red pine lake, twin peaks, and the valley.
- Low commitment cragging in an amazing setting. Jul 14, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
+1 to everything Mike said. Kudos to Andy Ross and the other guys involved with the FAs, this is a great addition to the trad granite climbing available in SLC. Thoroughly enjoyed the routes we climbed, and I'll definitely be back to tag the rest of them! I felt like the ratings were right on but that overall the climbing was of better quality and more enjoyable than typical 2-star climbing fare in LCC or BCC, so long as you don't mind a little lichen.

We trundled some loose stuff of the climbs we did and I dug out a few pro placements that had filled in with mud/plants. The crag will clean up well if it ever starts to see more traffic, but for alpine style rock is already in great shape.

At least in July, within an hour or two of the crag hitting the sun it was too hot to climb comfortably. That being said, we were both wearing light jackets and I had a beanie on in the early am. Bring webbing/rap rings to back up/replace. It's 3.5 miles into the crag. Jul 25, 2014
a.l.  
I roped soloed 4 or 5 lines on in this area in the summer of 2009. There was some tat hanging around then, all of which was removed. I was able to walk off or down climb to avoid leaving slings-this would be a great little alpine area to leave as found. A fun mountain crag for exploring, no more beta needed. Jun 25, 2016
Eric Montandon
Orem, Ut
Eric Montandon   Orem, Ut
what is the camping situation like at red pine Lake/crag? is it legal and doable? just looking for a quick easy camp and climb get away for the weekend. Sep 1, 2016
apross  
Nice (free) camping next to Red Pine Lake. 15 mins to the Crag from there. Sep 1, 2016