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Routes in Dihedrals Area

Black and White John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: E. Elaison, D. Raymond, FFA: Jack Roberts, Frank Trummel, 1976
Page Views: 9,185 total, 58/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route is roughly in the center of the main wall and easily spotted with the roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a good, tough face climbing crux, protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. but once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared excitement. It's a great route, is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly easy. At least half of this route is good, hard 5.10 climbing

Protection

Stoppers and cams to 3", two bolts.

Photos

Frank Anthony Nederhand
Salt Lke City, Utah
  5.11a/b
Frank Anthony Nederhand   Salt Lke City, Utah
  5.11a/b
Great route, tougher for short people!! Jun 15, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
The tech crux is the ten feet around the first bolt, and I pasted a bomber #5 stopper to access that bolt; however, the Red Point/On-Sight crux was -for me- that scary-rounded-pumper-layback-thingy getting to the chains. Just punch it, and keep a sharp eye for the jugs that come to play on the left wall. This route would be a 5-Star Classic.... anywhere!

My rack:
Several #3-10 Stoppers
.5-2 Tricam (sorry, but I just love these..)
Double #2 TCU (the yellow one)
Camalot:.5, .75, 1, 2...and I used two #4 in the wide crack down low.

Work whatever rest you come upon, like the one at the roof once you get some good hand jams in play. I agree that unless you have lots of power to spare, like Drew Bedford does, then a superior tactic would be to forget about setting anything up high, and just move fast once you clip that last bolt, torquing those toes and doing the gorilla thing all the way to the chains.

Don't forget to breathe. Apr 15, 2015
bsmoot  
Here's a little history back in the '70s about the bolts.

Kim Miller began working on the FFA, mid-'70s. There were NO bolts on the route at the time. He freed it close to the same time Roberts freed it. He also said:

"After this, Mark Ward put a bolt in at the crux first move, left of the crack. He and I had both ripped pieces out from that area so added a bolt. I put a great Lost Arrow pin in at the roof before the final lie back. This was later - way later - replaced with another bolt." Sep 18, 2014
JimG  
Yeah, Jack Roberts was such a pussy back in 1976. Nice guy with an impressive climbing career. Too bad he was killed a couple of years ago ice climbing. Sep 17, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
What exactly does "maybe the bolts were placed traditionally" mean? On lead by hand?? You do realize that when this line went up and was freed (early 70s) the "places for gear along the way" weren't exactly stellar placements for nuts and hexes? The bolt was necessary at the time. It may be somewhat superfluous now but you may want to consider the context in which it was placed and recognize its historical purpose... I guarantee the dudes who placed that hardware understood the mind game of managing danger better than you ever will.
BTW, did you clip the bolt? Sep 17, 2014
choppinBolts  
 
I previously left a comment talking smack on the fixed gear on this climb. Below are the reactions and cool historical comments others left. I accept any hard feelings people may have had. Thanks for the interesting facts and perspective on this climb Sep 17, 2014
Dean Raynes
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Dean Raynes   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Great climb, I agree that this is a good climb to get into the grade, its 5.9+ sustained but only a couple moves at 5.11. And dont put a piece above the second bolt just commit, make the move, and stand up on good feet. Sep 5, 2013
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
  5.11a
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
  5.11a
The final bolt's nut is loose and could use a tighening with some glue to prevent it from loosening again. I think it has loosened due to the crossloading force (to the right) of those who fall on toprope or lower off on the climb. The bolt hanger twists counter clockwise when loaded in this situation and then the leader corrects it each time it is lead. The glue that once held it stationary has broken. The result is a potential hazard on a well used route. Jun 5, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
One of the best routes of the grade in LCC. Don't bother placing gear above that 2nd bolt. It will only pump you out and make you fall. Great rests throughout. Jun 17, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.11a
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.11a
you can get in at least 2 micros above the last bolt, and they're solid. i must have climbed up, and down 2-3 times before committing to those last moves! Apr 29, 2011
Just saw this.

Frank Trummel was my partner on the FA. Glad people are still enjoying it. May 31, 2010
You can place a micro-nut after the second bolt. This will make the fall a bit shorter, in case things donĀ“t quite work on the exit. In any case, it is a clean fall and should be okay to take it. It does give you peace of mind though since the last moves are so committing. Nov 5, 2009
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
I agree, i think it is solid 5-11 in between those two bolts. I did not get a piece in at the top either, but the climbing eases as you get higher. Sep 6, 2009
David, I took that ride, and it's a long one. Thanks to whoever placed that bolt. You did a good job. Definitely doesn't let up even after you pull the roof.

Full 5.11 goodness. May 6, 2009
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
I missed whatever pro might have been available after that second bolt definitely whimpering by the time I finally got to the chains. I felt so close to taking that big ride out into space, but I didn't. Great route, I fell once at the crux, so didn't quite get the onsight. It was my first 5.11 trad lead, I thought it was a reasonable break in route, the only .11 climbing was protected well by that bolt, but definitely a lot of .9-.10 climbing on the route too. Sep 18, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.11a
Nathan Fisher  
  5.11a
I would disagree with the assertion that this is a great 5.11a break in route. It's a great route, it is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly straight-forward. At least half of this route is sutained hard 5.10 climbing. A green Metolius helped me commit to the finishing move. Jul 6, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.11a
d-know   electric lady land
  5.11a
favorite lead on the wall Jan 25, 2006