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> Gate Buttress
> Dihedrals Area
Fallen Angel Variation
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in Dihedrals Area
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Black and White Frosted, John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black and White John and Mary, Direct Finish T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Motor Skills T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Satan's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.57311, -111.75298 |
| FA: | George Lowe 1970's |
| Page Views: | 1,978 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | mountainsense on Mar 30, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
If you've climbed Satan's Corner (5.8, G. Lowe, E. Anderson) before and happen to find yourself back at the Dihedrals, why not give the Fallen Angel Variation a go? Don't be too overwhelmed by its 'R' rating in the Ruckman guide; if you're solid at the grade, don't miss the opportunity to experience a bit of old-school boldness! Climb the first pitch of Satan's Corner, then continue up and right along flakes and a discontinuous crack to reach the top of the wall. The gear leading up to the 'R' section is solid, and the fall clean.
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