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Routes in Dihedrals Area

Black and White John and Mary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Core Shot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Equipment Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fallen Angel Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Half-A-Finger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Incubator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lisa's Shoulder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Premature T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Nook T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem the Tide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: George Lowe
Page Views: 1,008 total, 11/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Mar 30, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

If you've climbed Satan's Corner (5.8, G. Lowe, E. Anderson) before and happen to find yourself back at the Dihedrals, why not give the Fallen Angel Variation a go? Don't be too overwhelmed by its 'R' rating in the Ruckman guide; if you're solid at the grade, don't miss the opportunity to experience a bit of old-school boldness! Climb the first pitch of Satan's Corner, then continue up and right along flakes and a discontinuous crack to reach the top of the wall. The gear leading up to the 'R' section is solid, and the fall clean.

Location

Climb the initial handcracks of Satan's Corner to a ledge with an obvious slung horn--this is the original belay for the first pitch of Satan's. To descend, rap from a single-bolt anchor--as of March '10--to the shared anchors atop Stem the Tide and Lisa's Shoulder.

Protection

Bring a standard LCC rack; doubles in small wires to finger-sized cams may be useful, but not necessary. The single bolt above can be backed up with a hand-sized piece.

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hehehe... you said nuttery Mar 31, 2010
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I would say that the gear is there, but the somewhat suspect nature of the rock leaves a little more doubt in each hand and foot and nut placement. Keep your cool and you should be fine. A few small cams and some skilled nuttery will get you up this thing just fine. Mar 30, 2010
With the advent of modern micro-widgets, this line may not warrant its 'R' rating. It felt similar to Lisa's Shoulder (5.9 R, E. Eliason, D. Raymond, 1969) in difficulty, and should clean up nicely with a few more ascents! Mar 30, 2010