Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Gate Buttress

Beckey's Wall Area 22 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Dihedrals Area 9 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
East Gate Buttress 25 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Five Fingers Area 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Heaven's Gate Area 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Prune Face Slab 9 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Schoolroom Area 25 / 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 32
University Slabs 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Edit]

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.

Getting There [Edit]

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

[Edit]
June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an
unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as
the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of
climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder
problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The
recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders
and the local climbing community.

115 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Gate Buttress Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 283
Schoolroom
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 153
Schoolroom West
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 153
Schoolroom Direct Variation
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 183
Tingey's Terror
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 464
Beckey's Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Movie Variation
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 440
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 245
Callitwhatyouplease
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 100
Tingey's Torture
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 368
Satan's Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 104
The Hook
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 201
Half-A-Finger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 78
Equipment Overhang Right
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 113
Black and White John and Mary
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 132
Equipment Overhang
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolroom Schoolroom Area
 283
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Schoolroom West Schoolroom Area
 153
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Schoolroom Direct Variation Schoolroom Area
 153
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Tingey's Terror Beckey's Wall Area
 183
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Beckey's Wall Beckey's Wall Area
 464
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Movie Variation Schoolroom Area
 84
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bushwhack Crack Schoolroom Area
 440
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Callitwhatyouplease Schoolroom Area
 245
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tingey's Torture Beckey's Wall Area
 100
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Satan's Corner Dihedrals Area
 368
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Hook Schoolroom Area
 104
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Half-A-Finger Dihedrals Area
 201
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Equipment Overhang Right Dihedrals Area
 78
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Black and White John and Mary Dihedrals Area
 113
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Equipment Overhang Dihedrals Area
 132
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Gate Buttress »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Who could we write thank you notes to for allowing this area to be open to climbers? How can we build this relationship even more? Sep 11, 2014
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
LOST GEAR- REWARD IF FOUND
An orange 40m rope was misplaced probably somewhere at the trailhead. If any kind soul has it and is looking to return it you will definitely be compensated!!
Please call or text me at 443-535-3524 if you have any info/questions Jun 10, 2016
PJC683  
On 10/8/16 between 11:00 am and 3:30 pm we had cash and phones stolen out of our bags which were located at the base of schoolroom direct. The thief went into our bags and through our wallets taking only cash but leaving everything else (credit cards, drivers license, etc.). The gear we had in our bags was worth more than the phones and cash but it was not touched. A claim has been filed with the police, please contact me if you know anything about this or had this also happen to you on this day.

I hate to think it is another member of the climbing community that did this (Based on the gear that wasn't stolen, I doubt it was) Yet it does provider a reminder to think twice about bringing phones, wallets, and valuables to the crag and leaving them unattended in your bags. Oct 9, 2016
found: scarpa rock shoes around the gate bouldering area. contact me at 6019682160 with details of the shoes so i know they are yours and you can come pick them up. Oct 19, 2016
Jecca  
LOST:A pair of Anasazi 5.10 shoes and a red alien cam. Probably located near Black and White John and Mary. If you've found either, please call 2063549355. Thanks! Nov 6, 2016
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of

Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe… Jun 2, 2017
Heads up folks! the SLCA, Access Fund and Single Track Trails will be sending trail crews out to work on the Gate Buttress This spring. We are psyched to be stewards of this beloved climbing area! This year our efforts will focus on the Schoolroom, Green Adjective, the Fin and Dihedrals. You will see flagging and the crews out working over the next few weeks. Please respect any closure signs on portions of trail as they are there for your safety. Show your support for these climbing areas by joining us on an upcoming Adopt a Crag volunteer day April 14th & 28th, as well May 12th and 26th. Be sure to pre-register here: saltlakeclimbers.org/adopt-…
Thanks! Mar 30, 2018

More About Gate Buttress

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (10)

All Photos Within Gate Buttress (363)

Most Popular · Newest · Random