Elevation: 6,285 ft
GPS: 40.5733, -111.7533
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 509,208 total · 2,696/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.

Getting There

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an
unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as
the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of
climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder
problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The
recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders
and the local climbing community.

133 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 428
Schoolroom
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 281
Tingey's Terror
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 660
Beckey's Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 628
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 156
Tingey's Torture
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 555
Satan's Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 174
The Hook
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 90
Fingertrip Variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 313
Half-A-Finger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 109
Equipment Overhang Right
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 128
The Flakes
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 180
Black and White John and Mary
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 93
Stem the Tide
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
To Air is Human
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 224
Equipment Overhang
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolroom Schoolroom Area
 428
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Tingey's Terror Beckey's Wall Area
 281
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Beckey's Wall Beckey's Wall Area
 660
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bushwhack Crack Schoolroom Area
 628
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Tingey's Torture Beckey's Wall Area
 156
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Satan's Corner Dihedrals Area
 555
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Hook Schoolroom Area
 174
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Fingertrip Variation Beckey's Wall Area
 90
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Half-A-Finger Dihedrals Area
 313
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Equipment Overhang Right Dihedrals Area
 109
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
The Flakes E Gate Buttress
 128
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Black and White John and Mary Dihedrals Area
 180
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Stem the Tide Dihedrals Area
 93
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
To Air is Human E Gate Buttress
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Equipment Overhang Dihedrals Area
 224
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Gate Buttress »

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