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Elevation: 6,285 ft 1,916 m
GPS: 40.5733, -111.7533
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Page Views: 511,915 total · 2,501/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

Suggest change
June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an
unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as
the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of
climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder
problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The
recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders
and the local climbing community.

140 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 474
Schoolroom
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 299
Tingey's Terror
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 707
Beckey's Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 669
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 385
Callitwhatyouplease
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 590
Satan's Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 95
Fingertrip Variation
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 335
Half-A-Finger
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 138
The Flakes
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 189
Black and White Frosted, John an…
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 99
Stem the Tide
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 72
To Air is Human
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 244
Equipment Overhang
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 19
Split Fingers
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Graying at the Routes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolroom Schoolroom Area
 474
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Tingey's Terror Beckey's Wall Area
 299
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Beckey's Wall Beckey's Wall Area
 707
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bushwhack Crack Schoolroom Area
 669
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Callitwhatyouplease Schoolroom Area
 385
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Satan's Corner Dihedrals Area
 590
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Fingertrip Variation Beckey's Wall Area
 95
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Half-A-Finger Dihedrals Area
 335
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Flakes E Gate Buttress
 138
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Black and White Frosted, Jo… Dihedrals Area
 189
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Stem the Tide Dihedrals Area
 99
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
To Air is Human E Gate Buttress
 72
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Equipment Overhang Dihedrals Area
 244
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Split Fingers Beckey's Wall Area
 19
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Graying at the Routes E Gate Buttress
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Gate Buttress »

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