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Areas in Gate Buttress

Beckey's Wall Area 22 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Dihedrals Area 9 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
East Gate Buttress 25 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Five Fingers Area 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Heaven's Gate Area 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Prune Face Slab 9 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Schoolroom Area 25 / 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 32
University Slabs 1 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 6,285 ft
GPS: 40.573, -111.753 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 149,127 total, 1,181/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

117 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Schoolroom
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schoolroom West
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schoolroom Direct Variation
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hatchet Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweet Jane Variation
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tingey's Terror
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beckey's Wall
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bushwhack Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Callitwhatyouplease
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tingey's Torture
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Corner
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
The Hook
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Half-A-Finger
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black and White John and Mary
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Equipment Overhang
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schoolroom Schoolroom Area 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Schoolroom West Schoolroom Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Schoolroom Direct Variation Schoolroom Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Hatchet Crack Schoolroom Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sweet Jane Variation Beckey's Wall Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Tingey's Terror Beckey's Wall Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Beckey's Wall Beckey's Wall Area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bushwhack Crack Schoolroom Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Callitwhatyouplease Schoolroom Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tingey's Torture Beckey's Wall Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Satan's Corner Dihedrals Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Hook Schoolroom Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Half-A-Finger Dihedrals Area 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Black and White John and Mary Dihedrals Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Equipment Overhang Dihedrals Area 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Gate Buttress »

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Photos

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of

Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe… Jun 2, 2017
Jecca  
LOST:A pair of Anasazi 5.10 shoes and a red alien cam. Probably located near Black and White John and Mary. If you've found either, please call 2063549355. Thanks! Nov 6, 2016
found: scarpa rock shoes around the gate bouldering area. contact me at 6019682160 with details of the shoes so i know they are yours and you can come pick them up. Oct 19, 2016
PJC683  
On 10/8/16 between 11:00 am and 3:30 pm we had cash and phones stolen out of our bags which were located at the base of schoolroom direct. The thief went into our bags and through our wallets taking only cash but leaving everything else (credit cards, drivers license, etc.). The gear we had in our bags was worth more than the phones and cash but it was not touched. A claim has been filed with the police, please contact me if you know anything about this or had this also happen to you on this day.

I hate to think it is another member of the climbing community that did this (Based on the gear that wasn't stolen, I doubt it was) Yet it does provider a reminder to think twice about bringing phones, wallets, and valuables to the crag and leaving them unattended in your bags. Oct 9, 2016
LOST GEAR- REWARD IF FOUND
An orange 40m rope was misplaced probably somewhere at the trailhead. If any kind soul has it and is looking to return it you will definitely be compensated!!
Please call or text me at 443-535-3524 if you have any info/questions Jun 10, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Who could we write thank you notes to for allowing this area to be open to climbers? How can we build this relationship even more? Sep 11, 2014

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